Yosemite

The unique beauty of Yosemite attracts tourists from all over the world. The national park seems to be a treasure box of nature’s most astounding jewels. Among its four famous waterfalls Yosemite is the largest waterfall in the United States, its height is 800 meters. It is one of the highest waterfalls in the world and consists of three separate waterfalls: the Upper Yosemite Falls at 436 meters, the Middle Cascades at 206 meters and the Lower Yosemite Falls at 98 meters. The Lower Yosemite Falls are easy to get to, but the Upper Falls will take a day to get to, and the journey will not be easy. Vernal Falls descends in a white-foaming stream from an almost sheer cliff. Nevada Falls resembles the wild primitive nature of the Sierra Nevada itself. Last on the list – but by no means least in its merits – Bridal Veil Falls drops its icy waters into the valley.

Rocky granite rock outcroppings are another Yosemite attraction. These amazing monoliths, including the famous El Capitan (2307 meters) and Half Dome (2695 meters). Climbers can’t resist the lure of their 1,000-meter cliffs, even though they are virtually vertical walls polished by an ancient glacier. Half Dome was formed about 85 million years ago. It’s hard to even imagine the pressures and temperatures that could have forced this block of granite to rise above the valley.

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It’s also worth naming the park’s most famous landmark, Half Dome Mountain. It is often photographed. The mountain rises to 1219 meters, and its smooth surface contrasts strangely with the prickly peaks around it. Those who wish can climb it, but be prepared to have aching muscles the next day!

Yosemite National Park is deservedly famous for its diversity of flora and fauna. In Mariposa Grove lies the trunk of a giant fallen tree. It is called the “Overthrown Monarch.” Since sequoias, like other redwoods, are impervious to rot, no one is able to determine even approximately how many years ago it collapsed. Yosemite is home to at least 37 different tree species, including giant sequoias that live to be 2,000 years old. Rare conifers predominate. In addition, there are 1,400 plant species, 74 mammal species, and 230 bird species found in Yosemite.

Among the notable fauna, colorful monarch butterflies, white-tailed deer, and black bears are the first things that catch the attention of tourists. While the last grizzly bear – literally translated as “the dreaded California bear” – was discovered in this region in 1854, about 300 American black bears feel more than at ease here and cause a lot of trouble for visitors and Yosemite Park staff. In the Visitor Center, for example, you will immediately notice a stand with photos of cars damaged or simply mangled by bears in search of food. All the guides immediately emphasize the rules of behavior in the reserve with an eye on the visible and invisible presence of cute bears. There are special rules for food storage and “bear-proof” trash cans everywhere. These large predators are no longer afraid of humans, they appear in the campgrounds even during the day and can often pose a real danger. For obvious reasons, they do not like to talk about it, but there is no escaping the real cases of bears attacking people, including fatal ones. The most aggressive individuals are shot by the rangers every year.

The park is gorgeous all year round. In spring, waterfalls and wildflowers look best. Summer is warm, the subalpine flowers are in bloom, and it’s a wonderful season for hiking. In the fall, it can be colder but less crowded. Winter is a great time to warm up by the camp fire.

In 1864, landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted was the first public figure to raise his voice in defense of Yosemite’s natural treasures.

Geology

The geological structure of the Yosemite Park area is characterized by granitic and remnants of even older rock formations. About 10 million years ago, the Sierra Nevada Mountains rose and then tilted so that the western slope became more gentle and the eastern slope, facing toward the mainland, became steeper. The uplift increased the steepness of water streams and riverbeds, resulting in deep and narrow canyons. About 1 million years ago, accumulated snow and ice on the summits formed glaciers in areas of the present-day subalpine and alpine belts, thus lowering the river valleys down the slope.

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During the first glacial period, the ice in the glaciers was up to 1,200 meters thick. Further sliding of the glacial masses formed a U-shaped valley, which is now a major magnet for landscape enthusiasts. The best time to visit Yosemite is in May, when you can enjoy views of raging waterfalls and blooming dogwoods in the valley, as well as snow in the upper, high-altitude part of the park, and, of course, the most beautiful views for photos.

Tourists

Arrival and accommodation

Yosemite is located 321 kilometers east of San Francisco and is accessed by three roads (CA 120, CA 140 and CA 41). Road CA 120 runs from the east and crosses the Sierra through Tioga Pass. Due to snow, this road is often closed until July. All roads pass through several tunnels that will sooner or later lead you to a stunning avenue surrounded on all sides by vertical rocky slopes and a green sea of forests stretching beyond the horizon. This is Yosemite Valley, the crown jewel of the park.

The Yosemite Park Admission Pass ($20 per car, $10 for bicyclists, motorcyclists, and hikers) is valid for seven days and comes with a free map and a helpful guidebook. The main entrances to the park are Arch Rock (Highway 140), the South Entrance (Highway 4-1), Big Oak Flat (Highway 120 West), and Tioga Pass (Highway 120 East). Highway 120, open seasonally, crosses a park called Tioga Rd, connecting Yosemite Valley to Highway 395 in the Eastern Sierra Nevada.

Yosemite Village is crowded, with car-clogged roads. Here you’ll find the park’s main visitor center, museum, department store, and more. At another Yosemite Valley center, Curry Village, campers have access to showers, Wi-Fi and outdoor gear (for rent and sale), including camping. The high-altitude Tholumne Meadows in the park’s northern region (Tholumne Meadows, Tuolumne Meadows), along scenic Tayoga Road, attracts hikers and climbers. In Wawona, near the south entrance, you’ll find a historic pioneer village, golf course and giant sequoias.

You’ll find a luxury hotel room, a modest rental or a simple tent in the thick of Yosemite Valley by the Merced River. From the valley, you can hike, bike (lodging at Yosemite Lodge or Curry Village), horseback or mule, or take a shuttle bus to take in all the sights. The valley is flanked by high granite cliffs: Half Dome (2,695 m) to the northeast; Glacier Ledge, Guardian, and Cathedral Spire below at the south wall and El Capitan, Three Brothers, and Washington Column above at the north wall.

In the summer, camping spots must be reserved in advance (518-885-3639; www.recreation.gov). You can do this up to five months in advance of your trip. Campground sites usually sell out online in minutes. See www.nps.gov/yose/plan yourvisit/camping.htm

Yosemite Valley Visitor Center (Yosemite Valley Visitor Center; 209-372-0299; www.nps.gov/yose; Yosemite Village; 9 a.m.-7:30 p.m., shorter by an hour in winter) Smaller visitor centers in Bayonne, Tuolumne Meadows, and Big Oak Flat open in season.

Hiking

Hiking can be chosen according to one’s physical fitness. Vernal Falls, located in the Merced River Canyon, can be accessed by any fit person. The well-marked trail starts at the Happy Isles Nature Center, where park rangers will answer all your questions. If you’re feeling up to it, take the Mist Trail past Emerald Pond to Nevada Falls, which is no longer crowded. Here you step onto the John Muir Trail, named after the Scottish naturalist who explored the Sierra Nevada Mountains and dedicated his life to protecting them from the ravages of civilization. The trail passes Lake Merced and leads to the picturesque Tuolumne High Meadows. The trail’s terminus is Mount Whitney at 320 kilometers.

Less exhausting is the shuttle bus ride over Badger Pass to Glacier Ledge Cliff at 2,199 meters above sea level. At this altitude, the views of the valley and the Sierra Nevada Mountains stretching behind are breathtaking.

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Here you will see Yosemite Creek tumbling down the 800-meter opposite steep drop as two colorful cascades (Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls), as well as the majestic view of Half-Water Cliff. From here you can hike and camp on the way back along the Panoramic Trail past Nevada and Vernal Falls, and the entire descent is 13 kilometers.

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Another great hike can be made to Mirror Lake, especially in spring or early summer when the water is still in the morning or at sunset and the magical colors of the trees and Watkins Mountains are reflected on its surface.

Transportation

The nearest Greyhound and Amtrak station is in Merced. YARTS buses (209-388-9589; www.yarts.com) travel to the park from Merced on Highway 140, stopping in towns along the way. In the summer, YARTS buses go from the valley to Mammoth Lakes via Highway 120. One-way tickets, including park entrance fees: $13 from Merced, $15 from Mammoth Lakes.

Free commuter buses circle Yosemite Valley and go as far as Tuolumne Meadows and Wawona in the summer. DNC hiker buses go from the valley to Tuolumne Meadows (one-way/round-trip ticket $14.50/23) or Glacier Point Lookout (one-way/round-trip ticket $25/41). You can rent bikes (per hour/day $10/28) at the Yosemite Lodge and Curry Village in the valley. The valley roads are cleaned up in the winter and the highways to the parks remain open (except Tioga Rd/Highway 120), though you may need snow chains. A free bus runs twice a day from Yosemite Valley to Badger Pass ski area.

Facts

• John Moore: John Moore (1838-1914) was an early conservationist known as the “Father of the National Parks.” A writer, traveler, explorer, geologist, and engineer, he was featured on the back of the California state 25 cents.
Pohono: Local Native Americans named the Bridal Veil Falls “Pohono,” meaning “Spirit of the Wind.” According to legend, a young maiden was once captured in a cloud of mist that enveloped the waterfall. Her friends were never able to find her. The girl’s spirit was left to live in the veil of the waterfall.