Sulak Canyon

Sulak Canyon is an interesting and controversial natural attraction in Russia, located in Dagestan. The canyon is the deepest on the territory of Europe, as well as one of the world record holders. Although the depth of this river valley is greater than that of Lake Baikal, far fewer people have heard of the Sulak Canyon, even in our country. One of the reasons is that the region is so far little adapted for tourism. But this makes the Sulak Canyon even more attractive and interesting to visit. Before travelers who come here, beautiful wild places open up, poorly affected by civilization.

Video: Sulak Canyon

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Highlights

Sulak Canyon is one of the most striking sights of mountainous Dagestan. It is located in the eastern part of the republic, 55 km west of the capital Makhachkala in a straight line and 100 km when driving by road. The river valley stretches from the Gimrinsky ridge to the Chiryurt reservoir – a distance of 53 km. Due to this length, the Sulak Canyon belongs to three territorial units at once: Kazbekovsky, Untsukulsky and Buynaksky districts.

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The name of the canyon comes from the Sulak River, which flows through the gorge and flows into the Caspian Sea. In the narrowest places, hydroelectric power plants were built and several reservoirs were organized. The largest of them, the Chirkey reservoir, is closest to Makhachkala. Chirkeyskaya HPP is the most powerful in the North Caucasus and the second highest arch dam in Russia, losing by this parameter only 10 meters to Sayano-Shushenskaya HPP.

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The canyon got its fame not only because of its unique natural beauty. In terms of depth, it surpasses Baikal – the greatest depth is 1920 meters, while in the lake it is equal to 1642 meters. According to this parameter, the Sulak Canyon is in the world’s top 10, and it is even compared to the famous American Grand Canyon on the Colorado Plateau, whose depth in some places reaches 1600 m.

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History of the Sulak Canyon

The Sulak Canyon was formed over centuries. The Sulak River washed out the sandstone and filled the resulting depression with clear turquoise water. In some places the canyon narrows very much, and in other places, on the contrary, it widens up to 3.5 km. Conventionally, the canyon is divided into three canyons located one after another. These are directly Sulak, 18 km long, as well as Chirkeysky and Miatlinsky, which are inferior to the first in length and width.

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There are interesting facts in the history of the canyon. Thus, during the Caucasian War, which lasted from 1817 to 1864, this very place was especially popular among Russian poets and writers. Leo Tolstoy, Alexander Dumas and Mikhail Lermontov were here. The Sulak Canyon is the subject of the story “The Prisoner of the Caucasus” written by Tolstoy. Rereading the work, one can easily catch the entourage of these places and recognize the local landscapes.

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What to see: viewpoints and entertainment

Despite the fact that the Sulak Canyon is not yet a hyped tourist destination, there really is a lot to see here. Picturesque views open up from the observation decks. There are 2 of them at once in Dubki settlement, the nearest to the canyon. You can reach them on your own by taking the route Makhachkala – Dubki, and then walking a couple of kilometers following the signs. Coordinates of the sites:

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  • observation platform 1 – 43.021189, 46.825338. It is located not far from the village, a couple of hundred meters from the private sector;

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  • observation deck 2 – 43.016593, 46.832421. The most popular tourist spot, there are cafes and souvenir shops here.

From the side of the Chirkey reservoir there are 2 observation platforms:

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  • the first site – 42.981750, 46.914548, directly on the shore of the reservoir, on which, by the way, you can take a boat ride. This is where most tour buses stop;

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  • “Troll’s tongue” – 42.983548, 46.868957. Represents a piece of white rock protruding above the abyss. You should take into account that this is a wild place, which is not equipped in any way, so you need to be extremely careful.

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      Boat ride through the canyon

      The most impressive experience is a boat ride along the Sulak Canyon from the village of Zubutli. The settlement is located in the gorge itself on the bank of the Sulak River, almost opposite the Dubki, 2 km lower.

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      Since the dirt road to Zubutli is in poor condition, many travel agencies do not offer skiing inside the canyon. Instead, tourists are taken by boat only along the Chirkei Reservoir or along the Sulak River near the Glavryba restaurant in the village of Miatli. You can take a boat ride along the canyon itself among high rocks and past waterfalls only from the pier in the village of Zubutli.

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      There are different options here:

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      • if you got to Dubki on your own, by bus or cab, then at the official viewing platform you can arrange with drivers who will take you to Zubutli;
      • if you are traveling by car, you can arrange an excursion at the “Glavryba” and the checkpoint of the Miatlinskaya HPP, where locals with signs “boats in the canyon” usually stand.

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      Descent down the serpentine inside the canyon

      Another interesting route is the descent down the mountain serpentine inside the Sulak Canyon, just to the village of Zubutli, where you can ride a boat. The way starts from the tunnel of Miatli hydroelectric power station, which is a regime object. For this reason and because the road is not designed for a large number of cars, only locals and tourist groups of more than 10 people are allowed here.

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      Thus, tourists with an escort are prioritized. It is important not to forget to bring your passport, as documents are checked at the entrance. The road itself follows the slope along the canyon. It is very dangerous and narrow, cars are separated only on special platforms in a couple of places.

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      Tips for tourists

      It is necessary to prepare for a tour of the Sulak Canyon. You need to realize that this is one of the most dangerous places in Dagestan. No, the reason is not in people – the locals are very friendly. It’s all about nature. Not all viewing platforms are adapted for tourists, and those that are equipped are not always 100% safe because of strong winds blowing at altitude. There are cases of falling into the abyss, so you need to move around the area with special care, and preferably with a local guide. It is also worth observing a number of rules:

      • never go on an excursion in a state of hangover or alcohol intoxication;
      • it is better not to take small children with you;
      • choose something closed, designed for hiking;
      • wear closed shoes with sturdy, non-slip soles that can withstand sharp rocks and rocky ledges;
      • if you go to the Sulak Canyon on your own – be sure to stock up on clean water, food, first aid supplies and a first aid kit, because the area behind the Dubki is quite wild and uninhabited.

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      Where to eat

      In the mountains above the village of Dubki is open cafe “Oak Grove”. Judging by the reviews, this is a very atmospheric place. In the cafe often bring groups of tourists who took a tour of the Sulak Canyon. In the menu there are dishes of Caucasian cuisine. While waiting for the order on the street you can be photographed in national dress and swing on the swings with a beautiful view of the mountains.

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      Another option is the Glavryba trout farm. It is located at the entrance to the canyon, in the village of Miatli. This is another popular point in the excursion routes, where tourists are brought for lunch.

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      Where to stay

      Tourists usually stay in Dubki, where you can rent both an apartment and a small house with a courtyard and garden. Many vacationers also settle in the boarding house “Chaika” and hotel “Salavatia”. A double room will cost about 1000 rubles.

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      How to get there

      Without a car, you can only get to Chirkei (Chirkei Reservoir) and the settlement of energy workers Dubki, where public transportation goes. Buses depart from the Northern bus station (#1). Only one route runs in this direction. Note that it does not have an exact schedule – everything depends on the occupancy of the cabin. It is best to arrive at the bus station no later than 12:00. The return flight is even more unreliable, may not take place at all, so you often have to return with a change in Buynaksk or Kizilyurt.

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      By car you can get to Dubki by one of two routes.

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      • If you drive through Buynaksk and Chirkey, the distance to Dubki will be 80 km. The trip will take about 1 h 45 min. The road runs along the mountain serpentine.
      • The route through Shamkhal-Termen, Kizilyurt and Miatli (“Glavryba”, Chiryurt reservoir) is slightly longer – 90 km, but the time takes about the same amount of time, as the road lies on the plain.

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      Tourists advise to go to the Sulak Canyon on one route, and return by another way. Thus it will be possible to get more impressions. Forward it is better to go on the mountain serpentine, and back – on the Kizilyurt road running on the plain. On the way back you can buy a lot of delicious things: raspberries, cherries, peaches, currants, apricots, pears.

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      Inside the canyon you can go down only with an excursion, because, as mentioned above, the road passes through a regime object – the tunnel of the hydroelectric power plant. In addition, the road is very dangerous, and not every car will be able to pass here.

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