Kronotsky Reserve

Kronotsky State Nature Reserve is one of the largest and oldest biosphere reserves in Russia. It includes a group of volcanic hills and adjacent ecosystems, as well as part of the shelf of the Pacific Ocean coast. The protected area also includes the South Kamchatka Wildlife Refuge. The Kronotsky Reserve is located on the south-eastern coast of the Kamchatka Peninsula, its conditional cordon is 180 km northeast of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, the capital of the region. There are very few tourists here – 3000-5000 people a year. But travelers who get to this remote region of Russia, discover amazing corners of Kamchatka nature, which are among the UNESCO World Heritage sites.

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Video: Kronotsky Reserve

Contents

Highlights

The first conservation bans were introduced in these parts as early as 1882. Then on the initiative of local authorities here was established Sobolinny reserve, where aboriginal hunters extracted fur-bearing animals. In the early 30s of the last century the territory acquired the status of a state reserve. At that time this almost deserted land was little explored. Only in 1941 a scientific expedition led by hydrologist Tatiana Ustinova discovered dozens of geysers in a small valley by chance. Now they have become one of the main attractions of Kamchatka. And in 1975, another notable location was discovered quite nearby – the gloomy Valley of Death.

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Traveling through the Kronotsky Biosphere Reserve is not a budget walk. With the complete absence of roads, the transfer of tourists is provided by helicopters, and the rent of a rotor-winged machine is many times more than the cost of a ticket for an air flight from Moscow to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. The creation of any tourist infrastructure here is deliberately excluded in order not to disturb the fragile ecological balance of the unique environment. Accommodation is possible only outside the protected area.

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In a bay on the ocean, about 220 km from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, there is a former fishing village Zhupanovo, abandoned back in the 70s of XX century. There are still boarded up houses here, a pier for fishing seiners has been preserved. There are plans to create in the village, which today serves as a kind of a stronghold of the Kronotsky Reserve, a well-equipped tourist resort and a pier for small cruise ships. But these ideas have not yet found the support of the Kamchatka region’s leadership.

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Geography of the Kronotsky Reserve

Kronotsky Reserve is established in the southeastern part of the Kamchatka Peninsula, facing the Pacific Ocean. It is a picturesque mountainous area spread over 11,476 km² in the most seismically active zone of the planet. It occupies the entire northeastern part of the Yelizovsky district, stretching in an arc along Kronotsky Bay.

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Only in the last century hundreds of minor earthquakes and a dozen powerful ones with 7-9-point magnitude were recorded here. There are 8 active volcanoes on the territory of the reserve. The combination of the northern climate and frequent volcanic eruptions is reflected in the poetic name of this region, called by the first settlers the land of ice and fire.

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Climate

Most of the Kronotsky Reserve, located on the coast of the Pacific Ocean, has a temperate maritime climate close to the monsoon. But in some inland areas, remote from the sea and bounded by mountain ranges, climatic conditions can be referred to humid continental.

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Winters here are long, snowy, but frosts are moderate. The coldest month is February, when thermometer readings fluctuate within -9…-6 ° C. Sometimes Arctic air masses break through here, they bring real Siberian colds up to -25 … -22 °С. Record February frosts were here in 1917: -31.7 °С.

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Spring in Kamchatka is not in a hurry. In March it is still cold, on average -5…-2 °С. In the taiga wilds snow does not melt until the end of May. But lately global warming is changing the weather, familiar to the inhabitants of the Kronotsky Reserve, more and more actively. So, in March 2020, the local weather station recorded +8.5 ° C.

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In June comes a cool summer with an average air temperature of +13…+17 °С. But even here in the XXI century anomalies have already been noted. In 2012 and 2013 from June to August were unprecedentedly hot days for these places, when the air warmed up to +27 … +30 ° C.

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The invariably low temperature of the surface waters of the Pacific Ocean off the coast of the Kronotsky Reserve does not favor swimming. Even in the summer season the sea here does not get warmer than +15…+17 ° C – the proximity of the Arctic Atlantic affects.

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It is uncomfortable to swim in Kronotsky Lake. Half the year it is covered with a meter of ice, which comes down only in mid-May. Only by the end of summer the water body warms up to +13…+16 ° C.

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However, on the territory of the reserve there are thermal springs heated in the volcanic interior. Known and warm Bannoe Lake, where in the sulfurous water with pleasure bathe tourists. There are several small pools made of logs in the hot springs. The temperature of water in improvised baths reaches +35…+45 ° C.

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Flora and fauna

Travelers who find themselves in the Kronotsky Reserve are impressed by the diversity of landscape zones, rich flora and fauna. In the pristine taiga forests covering the hills, on the tundra areas and lush meadows in the floodplains of rivers there are more than 750 species of plants. In the valleys and intermountains, stone birch predominates, and alder groves can be found. There are groves of alder, century willows and silver poplars growing near water bodies. On the slopes of the hills rise mixed and coniferous forests, there are rowan, cherry, hawthorn, taiga larch, spruce.

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4 km from the ocean coast, in the valley of the Novy Semyachik River, on an area of about 20 hectares there is a relict fir grove – one of the attractions of the Kronotsky Reserve. The graceful outlines of the coniferous crowns of these 12-17 meter tall trees are reflected in their official botanical name – graceful fir (Abies gracilis).

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In the thickets of cedar shrubbery with edible nuts lives the largest population of brown bears in Eurasia, about 800 individuals. Another favorite treat of the slanted bears – tundra blueberries – also grows here. Kamchatka bears are excellent fishermen. Visitor centers in the Kronotsky Reserve show funny video footage of bears hunting for salmon.

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Bears, lynxes and wolverines pose a real danger to tourists, which is why solitary walks here are prohibited, and groups must be accompanied by armed guides. Reserved forests are full of harmless inhabitants – moose and reindeer, foxes, squirrels, marmots. Sable, ermine, weasels live here freely. Poisonous reptiles are not found in the Kronotsky Reserve.

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Adjoining the coast is a protected marine area, closed for commercial use. Whales and killer whales often swim here.

Sights of the Kronotsky Reserve

Natural attractions in the Kronotsky Biosphere Reserve are countless. A large number of vivid natural phenomena allowed to include this protected area in the list of World Heritage Sites as a single location – the biosphere reserve “Volcanoes of Kamchatka.”

The Kronotsky Biosphere Reserve is located in the central part of the reserve.

In the central part of the reserve splashes Kronotsky Lake with an unusual triangular shape. It is established that the water body with an area of 245 km² was formed about 10,000 years ago as a result of a volcanic eruption. The lava flow pouring out of the vent blocked the Krodakyg (Kronotsky) River valley with a petrified dam.

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The fish kingdom in the depths of the lake is represented by several endemic species of seals and char belonging to the salmon family. The coastal thickets of the protected water body are favored by swans for nesting. Hundreds of noisy colonies are settled on 11 islets by Pacific gulls. Bears often swim there, destroying nests in search of eggs. Thousands of birds take to the air for an epic battle with uninvited guests.

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Kronotsky Volcano (3521.2 meters) rises on the eastern shore of the lake. Probably, its eruption and gave birth to this vast body of water. In 10 km to the south, the silhouette of the Krasheninnikov volcano is blue, in the northeast you can see Mount Schmidt.

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The lake feeds a dozen streams and rivers originating in the surrounding mountains, but only one stream – Krodakyg – flows out. Its 40-kilometer-long channel ends at the mouth on the shore of the Pacific Kronotsky Bay. Large seals, also known as sea lions, rookeries here.

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To the south of the lakeshore is the Uzon volcano caldera – a giant depression with an area of 100 km². A mountain at least 3,000 meters high once stood here. About 40,000 years ago, the entire cone of the volcano blew up. It was literally swept away by a colossal explosion of volcanic gases rising from the interior. The magma in the depths of Uzon has not cooled to this day. In the caldera there are many thermal springs and small lakes – carbon dioxide, sulfuric, methane, chloride, radon. The water is infused with minerals and gases. On the hilly lava field of the caldera, hot gas-steam jets shoot out of cracks in the rock and mud mini-volcanoes bubble up. Numerous craters with a diameter of 30 to 150 meters and a depth of 20-40 meters are filled with oval hot lakes. They are fed by thermal keys heated to extreme values. At the bottom, the temperature exceeds +100 ° C. Surprisingly enough, life is found in this poisonous boiling water. Extremophile microorganisms live here quite comfortably.

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The natural wonders of Uzon are multiplying. In 2008, a geyser broke through to the surface, throwing boiling muddy water to a height of 6 meters. It was so named – “Muddy”. However, this hot fountain is not the only one in the reserve.

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30 km north of Kronotsky Lake, in the floodplain of a small river, is the Valley of Geysers. Above it rises the volcanic sopka Kikhpinych (1550 m). For centuries the natives of Kamchatka deified this place, considering it a dwelling place of spirits. But scientists learned about the existence of powerful outlets of underground thermal waters only in the 40s of the last century.

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In the 6-kilometer canyon are active more than two dozen geysers, fountaining with periods from a few hours to 1-2 days. On the ground there are up to 200 outlets of small thermal springs. The main hero of the show – the largest geyser Giant – appears here every 4 hours and 20 minutes with the precision of a chronometer. The jet of sodium-chlorine boiling water hits at 40 meters, and the steam cap rises into the air at 200 meters.

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In 2007, the Valley of Geysers of the Kronotsky Reserve was included in the list of 7 Wonders of Russia. In the same year there was a disaster – a mudslide collapsed into the valley from the slopes of a hillside. The landslide dammed up the river and destroyed several large geysers, including the Velikan. The resulting lake flooded part of the canyon. But two years later the water broke through the earth dam, washed away the sediment, and the geysers were restored. And the revived geyser Velikan has acquired a new image – now it suddenly appears from under the water near the river bank that has changed its shape. The largest geyser field in Russia is complemented by charming grottoes in the slopes of the volcano, waterfalls falling from the ledges of rocks.

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In late October 2020, Kikhpinych volcano, dormant for more than 600 years, showed alarming signs of activity. A thick plume of smoke appeared above the summit – a harbinger of a likely eruption. Perhaps, the Valley of Geysers will soon undergo new transformations.

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In the area of Kikhpinych Sopka, 7 kilometers from the Valley of Geysers, there is a lowland, in the old days nicknamed by local hunters-Itelmen Valley of Death. In this narrow two-kilometer gorge, cutting the slope of the volcano at an altitude of 850 meters above the ocean level, suffocating gases flow out of cracks in the soil. Impurities of cyanide, hydrogen sulfide and hydrocyanic acid paralyze the respiratory system of living creatures. The death trap operates from late spring until the first snow. Victims of poisonous vapors, suddenly bursting out of the ground, often become not only animals caught by surprise, but also birds hovering over the Valley of Death. Piles of animal bones scattered throughout the gorge serve as an ominous warning of danger to travelers. Reserve officials report that at least 25 dead bears have been found here in the last half-century, lured by carrion. In October 2020, a gamekeeper patrol recorded the deaths of 12 animals – wolverines, hares, gophers, and vole mice – in the Valley.

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Practical information

The territory is available for visits only after registration of permit documents and payment of the established fees in the service of educational tourism of the Kronotsky Biosphere Reserve. The administrative office is located in the town of Yelizovo, at 48 Ryabikova Street. Permits can be obtained from Monday to Thursday from 09:00 to 18:00, the work mode of the administration on Friday – 09:00-13:00. Weekends – Saturday and Sunday.

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To register the right to temporary stay in the protected Kronotsky zone and order excursions can also be in the Visitor Center, which is located in Ozernovsky village, on Rechnaya Street, 4 (Ust-Bolsheretsky district of Kamchatka Krai).

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You will find another permit processing point at the cordon “Ipuin”, which is in Bilkovsky district.

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The cost of visiting the Kronotsky Reserve – 300 rubles. For pensioners and schoolchildren 12-18 years the price of admission tickets is 150 rubles. For children under 12 years of age visit is free of charge. Excursion and transportation services, escort and overnight stays in the reserve are paid separately. These amounts are significantly higher. Thus, the cost of transfer to the Kronotsky Reserve from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky by Mi-8 helicopter reaches 38,000-40,000 rubles. A permit to visit the famous Valley of Geysers as part of a group will cost 6675 rubles per person per day.

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In May-June access to the protected area is limited: in the kingdom of animals comes the period of mating games. The best time to visit this untouched corner of nature is July-September.

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Souvenirs

There is a souvenir store in the administration building of the Kronotsky Reserve. It offers popular science literature, geographical maps, reference books-definition of plants, birds and animals, colorful photo albums. Handicrafts made by locals are especially popular as souvenirs.

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Transportation

There are no developed roads in the Kronotsky Reserve, there is no automobile transportation on the territory. In summer, tourists move on foot, in winter – on skis. SUVs and snowmobiles are used only by security personnel. In emergencies, a helicopter is sent for the urgent evacuation of tourists.

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Where to stay

The environmental regime in force in the Kronotsky Reserve does not provide for the device of extensive tourist infrastructure, the construction of capital complexes for overnight stays, stores, entertainment centers. Several ancient settlements that used to exist in these parts have long been removed and abandoned. Thus, in the village of Zhupanovo, which is on the Pacific coast, the only inhabitants are the rotational shifts of employees of the weather station.

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Travelers are welcomed by guest houses on cordons “Kipelye”, “Ipuin”. They are located outside the boundaries of protected areas. In other convenient places along the perimeter of the conditional boundaries scattered tent camping and shelters.

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In the Yelizovsky district, at the foot of the Kizimen volcano, rising to 2375 m on the outer side of the south-eastern section of the reserve’s boundary, a tourist camp “Tumroki” with cozy log cottages and its own helipad has been built. The flight here from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky takes 1 h. 45 min.

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Two-story cottages with attics are built in a leafy grove with juniper undergrowth. Here are offered six standard rooms with equipped bathrooms and showers. In separate cottages are spacious family apartments, as well as two suites. The cost of accommodation – from 4000 rubles per day, meals and excursions are paid separately.

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The rooms are supplied with hot and cold water, connected standard electricity 220 V, there is a backup power generator. Guests use satellite means of communication. There is a bar at the campground, the dining room offers three meals a day. There is a round-the-clock armed security service.

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In the basin near the recreation center there are outlets of thermal springs – Tumrok springs. They fill warm pools log cabins for bathing, there is a steam bath, billiard room, equipped boulevets with drinking mineralized water. There are hiking excursions to the sights of the Kronotsky Reserve, fishing in authorized locations. Hikes are designed for 1-3 days.

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At the source of the Ozernaya River, which is approximately in the center of the protected area, for overnight stay of small excursion groups of tourists recently equipped tent camping. This patch of land is surrounded by a wire fence to protect against visits from wild animals, there is a dining room under a canopy, there is a bio-toilet. At night, a portable gasoline generator is started, which supplies low voltage to the fence wire and provides lighting for the camp. This is the end of the civilization allowed here.

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How to get there

All routes in the Kronotsky Reserve start in the capital of the region – Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. Direct flights here are carried out from Moscow, Vladivostok, Khabarovsk, Irkutsk, Blagoveshchensk and other Russian cities. Further to the goal of the trip you can reach only by helicopter. The heliport is located 30 kilometers west of the regional capital, in the town of Yelizovo. Helicopters take tourists to cordons, where guest houses are built, or to one of the sites arranged on the territory of the reserve. All of them are located at a distance of about 250-300 km from the airfield in Yelizovo. The flight takes an hour and a half.

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There is another way to the reserve – sea. Excursion trip by motorboat from the port of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to the seaside village of Zhupanovo, located on the territory of the reserve, travelers order through the same local tour operators.

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It should be noted that both flight and sea cruise are arranged only under favorable weather conditions. Sometimes tourists have to wait for departure or sailing for twenty-four hours.

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Romantics and extremists gather in groups and go to the Kronotsky Reserve on foot, with heavy backpacks, accompanied by an armed gamekeeper-guide. The hiking trip is designed for about 2 weeks. A short way lies along mountain passes and valleys, through tundra and taiga forests. The routes of such tours are necessarily coordinated with local authorities, border guards, emergency services and, of course, with the administration of the biosphere reserve. Kamchatka tourist bureaus will help to organize the tour. For each day of stay in the reserve the group is charged a substantial fee, so the hike will cost an amount comparable to the cost of a helicopter transfer.

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