Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre is part of the coast of the Italian Riviera. It is a small protected region in the province of La Spezia in the northwest of the country, part of the historic region of Liguria. There is probably no other place in Italy that so well fulfills the ideal image of simple living. Colorful houses like swallow’s nests cling to the rocky shores, grapes and olive trees grow on steeply sloping terraces. There is not a single new building to catch the eye, and the purest air complements the idyll.

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Video: Cinque Terre

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General Information

In Cinque Terre, on the hillsides sloping down to the Mediterranean coast, five medieval towns – Vernazza, Monterosso, Riomaggiore, Corniglia and Manarola – are neighbors. This community gave the region its name: Cinque Terre means “Five Lands” in the old Ligurian dialect. The name can also be translated into Russian as Pyatigradie. Although the villages are quite tiny, each of them has all the features of a medieval town – castles of signori, fortress bastions, Gothic basilicas, market squares and dense residential development of narrow streets. The population of the villages is small, ranging from 800 to 3,500 inhabitants.

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Over the past half century, visiting the spectacular Cinque Terre coastline has become popular with travelers. Few domestic excursions by residents of nearby Italian towns have developed into one of the brightest international tourism destinations. However, here, as before, there are no modern resorts with luxurious multi-storey hotels and huge shopping and entertainment centers. Cinque Terre is a protected area.

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Five miniature villages with their patriarchal houses under the tiles, white medieval basilicas and ivy-covered fortresses, like a capsule of frozen time, keep the ancient Ligurian flavor. Narrow streets lead to the seashore, where nets are hung on stakes and fishermen’s boats bob on the water. The scents of the sea and ripe olives, the aromas of grapes, mountain lavender, rosemary and thyme mingle in the air. On the narrow pristine beaches it is pleasant to laze in a sun lounger under an umbrella, snorkel to the underwater reefs, and then head to a coastal tavern, where simple village dishes are offered, to which a bottle of excellent local wine is served.

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History of Cinque Terre

The territory of Cinque Terre was already developed during the Roman Empire. Pliny reports about the fortifications in this area, but the structures of the Roman era have not survived. But in the caves on the islands off the coast, archaeologists have found sites of Stone Age people and even older cultural layers up to 500,000 years old.

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The earliest written mention of Cinque Terre is found in historical chronicles dating back to the 11th century. At that time, these lands belonged to the Republic of Genoa. On the island of Palmaria, the Genoese mined precious black marble with golden veins, and the quarry and the ruins of the houses where the miners lived have been preserved. The first fortified seaside settlements were Vernazza and Monterosso; other villages – Riomaggiore, Corniglia and Manarola – grew later. The locals practiced fishing and extreme agriculture on the uncomfortable mountain slopes, where rains often washed away the soil along with the crops. For generations, peasants reinforced their vineyards, vegetable gardens and orchards with rows of retaining walls made of stone slabs, well-built without any binding mortar.

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In the 16th century, the Genoese were forced to significantly expand the forts built here to resist attacks by the Turkish fleet and pirates from North Africa. By 1600, the fortresses of Cinque Terre had lost their importance, and the region isolated by mountains fell into decline. Only 250 years later, these almost abandoned lands received an impetus for revival – in the 70s of the XIX century here laid a railroad. Nevertheless, many inhabitants preferred to leave for other regions of the country or emigrate across the ocean to America in search of happiness. The outflow of people from Cinque Terre continued until the middle of the twentieth century. They did not suspect that they were carelessly giving up a source of solid income. No one could have guessed that the panacea for poverty would be international tourism, which opened this wonderful corner of Italy to travelers at the end of the last century.

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Geography and climate

The Cinque Terre region is located on the northwestern coast of Italy, where the “boot” of the Apennine Peninsula meets the European continent. This area is a ridge of stony hills 400-800 meters high, stretching parallel to the coast of the Ligurian Sea. Behind the hills stretches the fertile valley of the Vara River and beyond it the mountains of the Apennine range. The coastline of Cinque Terre is mostly rocky and steep, with a few rivulets and streams flowing to the sea. Where the hills recede slightly from the surf line, narrow strips of beaches are formed. Cape Punto Vesco bounds Cinque Terre to the west, to the east the region extends to the town of Portovenere.

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This seaside corner of Italy enjoys a comfortable Mediterranean climate. Winters are mild and short, the air temperature in January rarely falls below the +9 ° C mark. In summer the air temperature fluctuates within +26…+32 °С, and the water near the coast warms up to +24…+26 °С. In spring and fall there are heavy rains. During this period rivers overflow and turn into stormy streams, floods and landslides occur. At the end of October 2011 heavy rains caused catastrophic landslides near the villages of Vernazza and Monterosso, mud flows caused significant damage – damaged buildings, flooded the streets, destroyed part of the terraces and in some places washed away tourist trails, cutting them with ravines. The same disaster befell the Cinque Terre coast in September 2012.

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Attractions

The main attraction of Cinque Terre is its picturesque hilly landscape, harmoniously complemented by man-made terraces reinforced by stone retaining walls. A layer of fertile soil has been poured into the terraces descending to the sea. Thousands of tons of earth, sifted from crushed stone, generations of hard-working peasants from century to century have brought on their own shoulders. The terraces start at the sea and rise up the slopes to a height of more than 500 meters. Their total length is 6,729 kilometers. Just imagine, the length of the terraces exceeds the distance from Moscow to the Canary Islands! On such narrow plantations, reclaimed from the rocky slopes, locals grow grapes, olives, almonds, lemons, vegetables. Many farms maintain apiaries. The terraces face the sea, they are southwest oriented and well lit during the day. From the deck of the pleasure boat, there is a marvelous panorama of the planned hills, as if seen with smart green ribbons.

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In 1997, UNESCO experts included the unique cultural landscape of Cinque Terre in the list of World Heritage of Humanity. A National Park was created here, covering 3,860 hectares. It is the only park in Europe focused on the protection of man-made (anthropogenic) landscape environment.

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A marine protected area has been established off the coast, which includes three islands – Palmeria, Tino and the very tiny Tinetto. Since 2008, only sailing boats and small motorized vessels, whose engines run exclusively on biofuel, are allowed to sail in the waters of Cinque Terre. It is forbidden to throw anchors on the bottom.

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In addition to the five villages, the protected area includes the town of Portovenere, also a UNESCO heritage site.

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Monterosso is the westernmost town of Cinque Terre. It is surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. Here you will find beautiful beaches with crystal clear water. In the center of the town are the ruins of the walls and three towers of a medieval castle. On the coast stands the watchtower of Aurora, built by the Genoese. Here you can see the Gothic Basilica of San Giovanni Battista, built at the end of the XIII century. Medieval frescoes are well preserved here. The bell tower of this church serves as one of the watchtowers of the castle. There are several Baroque churches in the town. On the outskirts of Monterosso stands the Capuchin Monastery (1619). Among the paintings decorating its interiors, stands out the “Crucifixion” by Van Dyck. Above Monterosso you can see the Church of the Virgin Mary, built in Romanesque style.

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City landmarks include a giant statue of Neptune. In 1910 it was cast from concrete by the famous Italian sculptor Arrigo Minerbi. The statue is 14 meters high and weighs 170 tons.

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The symbol of the village of Vernazza is the tower of Castello Doria (11th century). Down the slope the harbor is guarded by the Genoese bastion of Belforte.

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The colorful houses of the town of Manarola surround the medieval fortress. The oldest of Manarola’s churches is the Basilica of San Lorenzo (1338), decorated with rosettes and bas-reliefs in Carrara marble.

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The smallest village of Cinque Terre is Corniglia. It rises above the sea at the very tip of a 100-meter rocky promontory. The history of the village dates back to Roman times, the name comes from the aristocratic Cornelian family who owned the land. From the top of the medieval Genoese tower you can enjoy a beautiful view of the entire Cinque Terre National Park. Beautiful photos can also be taken from the panoramic terrace of Santa Maria. This promenade once led to a small ancient church that collapsed into the sea in an earthquake two hundred years ago. In the Gothic church of San Pietro (16th century) you can listen to organ music and admire the windows decorated with stained glass windows.

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To the east, the seaside town of Riomaggiore closes the succession of Cinque Terre villages. Its historical center was formed in the XIII century. According to local legend, the village was founded by Greek Christians who fled Byzantium from the repression of iconoclastic priests in the VIII century. There are many architectural monuments in the city, among them – the medieval castle of the Marquis Turcotti (1260), the parish church of San Giovanni Battista (1340), several basilicas of XIV-XVI centuries. A new district with a railway station appeared in the century before last, when the rails of the Genoa – Pisa highway stretched here.

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Walking the trails of Cinque Terre

A highlight of Cinque Terre are the hiking trails in the reserve. The maps indicate paths, detours, restrooms, and places equipped for resting and picnicking. The distances and difficulty of the routes are necessarily indicated. This is indicated by three terms:

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  • Difficoltà nessuna – no difficulty;
  • Difficoltà lieve – mild difficulty;
  • Difficoltà media – medium difficulty.

The walkways are safe and well laid out, with fences and warning signs in dangerous places. Here you can often meet young parents with babies in backpacks, and cheerful pensioners with sticks. However, hiking sticks, as well as comfortable sports shoes, are in fashion here. For admission to the walking paths you have to pay 7,50 €.

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The most popular 10-kilometer walking route is marked on the map of the Cinque Terre National Park as the “Blue Way”, it runs along the sea coast at an altitude of several dozen meters. The path starts in Riomaggiore and winds along the slopes, linking all five towns of Cinque Terre. The path is divided into four sections, the most famous of which is also the shortest (1 km, travel time 30-40 minutes). It leads from Riomaggiore to Manarola and has the romantic name of La Via dell’Amore, which means the Path of Love. Curiously enough, this comfortable path was not trampled through the rocks by Romeo and Juliet, but was laid with picks and shovels by Italian railroad workers in 1926 to move construction crews laying a new section of the road. About halfway down the trail, you’ll find the cozy dell’Amore bar. Refreshments, cocktails and fruit are served on an open veranda overlooking the azure Mediterranean Sea.

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The next section of the promenade stretches from Manarola to Corniglia (2 km, travel time – 60 min.). When you reach the railroad tunnel, you will see a fork. Choose to turn down to the beach and spend a couple of hours by the sea, or continue along the stone-paved path climbing up past the ancient cemetery. This stage of the hike ends at the foot of the Lardara Stairs, leading to Cornilla. The houses of this village are built in the center of Cinque Terre, on a precipitous hundred-meter cliff, so that this village can not be called coastal. But from here you can enjoy a wide panorama of the Ligurian Sea. There are 382 steps in the stone staircase, carved in the rock in ancient times and located serpentine snakes. It takes a quarter of an hour to get down from Corniglia to the beach, but the ascent is quite tiring. Local guides say it’s like walking up to the 76th floor of a skyscraper.

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After a breather in Corniglia, replenish your food and drinks here and then continue to Vernazza (4 km, travel time – 1 hr. 40 min.). The road leads over a bridge under which the Rio della Groppa River gurgles. After passing the walls of the castle of Casa Zattera, the path deepens into an olive grove growing on terraces. Here a path branches off and leads upwards to the castle of Casa Fornacci. Further down in the valley there are picnic areas. It is worth reminding you to bring a garbage bag along with your food, which should be taken away from the rest area.

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After a smooth ascent, the trail leads to a viewing platform at an altitude of 208 meters above sea level. From here, you begin to descend down a staircase that turns into a path winding amongst grape trellises and olive trees. The road will take you to Vernazza.

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Here begins the steepest finishing section of the crossing (3 km, travel time – 1 hour 30 minutes). In the field of view of travelers – the picturesque coast of Messorano. Here at every step there are convenient points for landscape photos. The path passes through an archway and heads upwards. Most of the way you will pass at an altitude of 150-200 meters, looking over vineyards, groves of olives and lemons, shimmering sea. This part of the Cinque Terre coastline is called the Costa Linaro. The road is crossed by a wide hollow through which the river flows. The steep slopes of its banks are fortified by terraces with vineyards. The hollow is crossed by a footbridge. From here you can see how the water flow in the distance abruptly stops. There is a waterfall coming down from the cliff, but it can only be seen from the sea. Beyond the bridge, the path soon turns into diverging steep staircases. One of them leads to Piazza Garibaldi in Monterosso, the other (the one to the left) will lead you to the Corona Rock, behind which stretches a wonderful sandy beach.

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It should be noted that from either village you can return to your hotel by train if the crossing tires you out or the weather turns bad.

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Best beaches in Cinque Terre

The beach season on the Cinque Terre coast lasts from early May to mid-October. The rocky coastline is indented with many coves with miniature wild beaches, but for the most part they are only accessible from the water. A comfortable sandy shore is located in the Monterosso area. Stony or pebble beaches are found near Corniglia and Riomaggiore. All of them are well equipped with beach facilities, but in high season it is not easy to find a free sunbed.

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There are three pebble beaches in Corniglia. One of them is the legendary Givano Beach, hidden in a secluded rocky cove. The beach is virtually inaccessible from land; the paths along the steep slopes have been destroyed by landslides and are very risky to walk on. After a major landslide in 2012, these crumbling paths are officially closed to the public. Also leading here is a gloomy abandoned one and a half kilometer tunnel, once cut into the rocks for an old railroad. This passage has also been closed to tourists since 2016. It is only possible to swim safely into the bay from the sea.

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This magnificent place in the 70’s of the XX century was favored by hippies. The liberated youth turned the coast hidden from prying eyes into an “autonomous territory” cosmopolitan community of hippies, who came here from all over Europe and even from the United States. Here reigned free mores, and the respectable villagers of Cinque Terre in horror gossiped about the nudists and drug addicts who filled the beach Givano. The story goes that the angry men of Corniglia landed a landing party from their boats one night and had an epic battle with the long-haired aliens. But all this is long gone, only romantic lore remains. You can get to the beach by boat rented from the Corniglia Marina.

One of the beaches in Vernazza is located a stone’s throw from the train station. The coast in a small bay is covered with pebbles smoothed by the surf, there are sandy areas. The beach is equipped with showers, toilets and sun loungers. Another newly equipped beach you will find on the opposite side of the city. From the heat here you can take refuge in a grotto, washed out by the waves in the rock.

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A small, charming beach is located east of Riomaggiore. There is a pedestrian tunnel leading from the train station to the village, beyond which signs will lead to the beach. This rocky beach has many large boulders, and there are slippery rocks covered with algae in the sea near the surf line. Be careful when entering the water. Here you can snorkel, looking at the stony underwater scenery.

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On the coast near Monterosso there are beautiful sandy beaches. The largest of them is the beach of Fejina, it is located near the train station in the new part of town. Umbrellas and sun loungers are available for rent. Walk along the promenade to the left of the station, through a tunnel you will reach the Old Town. Here you will find another spacious beach called Monterosso. Part of the coast is equipped with paid sunbeds, the rest of the area is a free unequipped beach. At the piers you can rent a boat for a boat trip.

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By train you can reach beaches outside of Cinque Terre in neighboring towns, such as Levanto.

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The train from Monterosso to Levanto only takes five minutes. Here, a large town beach sits on the shores of a vast bay. On its territory there is a diving center with rental equipment, there is an opportunity to rent sports canoes and kayaks, pleasure boats. The clean sandy bottom here is gentle, it is a safe place for small beachgoers. The local surf club is very popular. The kilometer-long sandy coast of Levanto is considered one of the best surfing spots in Italy, with waves up to 4 meters high on windy days.

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Entertainment

An excellent family entertainment will be a boat trip aboard a small motor ship. The schedule of ships can be found at the tourist information centers or directly at the piers.

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In the marine area of Cinque Terre there are more than two dozen locations for scuba diving. Diving centers with aqualung rentals and schools for divers of all levels are located in Riomaggiore, Monterosso and in neighboring Levanto.

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In Levanto, a three-day festival of the sea (Festa del mare) with colorful fireworks is held annually on July 23-25. Equally spectacular fireworks at sea are staged on August 14 in the waters of Monterosso. This holiday is called Festa della Madonna Assunta.

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Tourists in Cinque Terre will not be bored. At least once a week in one of the villages is organized a celebration dedicated to the patron saints, historical events. Culinary festivals also become an occasion to have fun, with anchovies, olive oil or grape wine in the center of attention. And at the Sagra dei limoni festival (third Saturday in May), you will be amazed to discover how many delicious dishes can be made with lemons.

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Music festivals are often organized in the villages of the National Park. An iconic event is the Festival bandistico. In early September, the most popular musicians and pop singers from all over Italy come here.

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Shopping

Good authentic souvenirs from a trip through the Cinque Terre highlands include a jar of lavender honey and a bottle of fragrant olive oil. Village hostesses make delicious lemon jams and jams from their own citrus. Have your friends taste the Cinque Terre wine made at a local winery. These gifts can be purchased at the markets. “Hunting” for goods of famous Italian brands can be arranged in boutiques and shopping centers in nearby cities, where the train ride will not take more than half an hour.

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Cuisine

The local cuisine utilizes seafood, olives, grapes, and fresh spicy herbs. Although the villages are literally a stone’s throw away from each other, each is famous for its own culinary delights. Corniglia has delicious ice cream (€1.50) and a rustic rice cake baked with cheese and boiled eggs. Vernazza bakes the most delicious pizzas, and they also make extraordinary chestnut flour cakes. Riomaggiore’s specialties are salted anchovies and stuffed clams.

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Cinque Terre produces several brands of wines from local grape varieties. The most popular of these is Sciacchetrà. The grapes are sun-soaked for some time before juicing. The result is a sweet golden amber wine with honeyed smell and almond aftertaste. This wine is served with cheese, desserts, ice cream, and fruit.

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In addition, grappa – grape vodka, delicious lemon liqueurs and several varieties of strong drink, in taste and color reminiscent of aged cognac are produced here.

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In Levanto, at the end of May, a one-day culinary tour is organized through the trattorias of the surrounding villages. In each village, hostesses prepare original dishes for guests, the tasting is accompanied by musicians and souvenir sales. Gathering for the culinary walk is appointed in Piazza Cavour at 09:30, here tourists register and pay for the trip. The cost of the tour is 25 € for adults, 15 € for children aged 6 to 12 years. Buses leave in stages from 11:00, and return to Levanto by 17:00.

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Where to stay

Basically, tourists stay in hotels in the two towns near the western and eastern borders of the National Park – Portovenere and La Spezia. Here the choice of hotels is very large, there are many restaurants and nightlife. But also in the villages of Cinque Terre there are more than 300 small hotels, apartments and cozy guest houses with a few rooms. Locals willingly rent apartments to tourists. Let’s list a few hotels, so that our readers can orient themselves in the prices for accommodation.

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On the outskirts of Monterosso, a hundred meters from the beach built Hotel Margherita. Accommodation costs from 110 € per night per room.

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A five-minute walk from the train station, in the center of Corniglia is the Corniglia Dreams Guesthouse. The rooms are air-conditioned and have TVs, refrigerators, coffee and tea makers. Bathrooms are equipped with hairdryers. Balconies offer sea views, and the beach is very close by. Restaurant tables are set on the view terrace. Rates range from 60 € to 80 € per night.

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The Arpaiu Guesthouse – Odeyo Sas is located in Manarola. The windows of the rooms overlook the harbor. There is a panoramic veranda on the roof. There is no restaurant in the hotel, but the rooms have well-equipped kitchens. The cost of accommodation – from 62 € per room. A deluxe room will cost 306 €.

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In Vernazza you can comfortably stay in family hotels, such as the cozy Hotel Gianni Franzi (Via Marconi, 1). It offers single and double rooms with air conditioning, has a bar and a good wine cellar. In the restaurant with homemade Italian cuisine tables are located on the panoramic terrace. Accommodation costs from 39 € per day.

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Transportation

Entry of vehicles into the territory of the Cinque Terre Reserve is limited, and in some places it is forbidden. For example, in the villages, only local residents’ cars and utility vehicles are allowed to enter. Parking lots for tourists are located far away from the city limits. Pay attention to the color of the marking lines on the parking lots. White lines mean free parking, blue lines mean paid parking. The cost of parking is 15 € per day. It is often impossible to find a parking space. The fine for parking in an unauthorized parking space is 38 €. It will certainly be written as soon as you get out of the car – the police watch the roads through video cameras. If traveling in Italy by car, we advise you to leave your car in a parking lot in La Spezia or Levanto, and continue by local train.

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All the villages of Cinque Terre are connected by rail. The distance between stations is only a few kilometers. The fare is 1.5 €. The train interval is 15-20 minutes.

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It is convenient to use the universal card Cinque Terre Train Card. It gives you the opportunity to travel by train and eco-friendly transportation in the National Park. The number of trips is not limited. A one-day card costs €7.50 for adults and €4.50 for children from 4 to 12 years old. The price includes admission to the park’s hiking trails, entrance to all museums and use of the Wi-Fi network. Two-day cards cost 14,50 € and 7,20 € respectively. Family cards are also available: one-day cards can be purchased for 19.60 € and two-day cards for 31.50 €.

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There are paths dedicated to mountain bikes (VTT) in the reserve. The starting point of the bike tours is at the Basilica of Madonna di Montenegro, which stands above the village of Riomaggiore. From the train station you can walk up there or take the Reserve’s minibus (free of charge for Cinque Card holders). There is also a bicycle rental shop there. You will also find such points near Manarola and at all the railroad stations. From Cinque Card you can use a bicycle for free for three hours.

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How to get there

From Moscow you can fly to one of the major Italian cities with direct rail connections to La Spezia, from where local trains run to the villages of the Cinque Terre National Park. The closest airports to the reserve are located in Pisa and Genoa. A flight Moscow – Pisa will cost from 6,639 rubles, travel time – 3 hours. 45 min. The train “Pisa – Spezia” goes 1 h. 15 minutes, the cost of the ticket depending on the class of carriage is from 7 € to 15 €.

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The cost of a ticket for the flight Moscow – Genoa – from 6 215 rubles. Travel time – 3 h. 50 min. From Genoa to La Spezia train goes 1 h. 30 minutes, the ticket will cost at least 9 €.

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If you are vacationing in northern Italy, ask about day trips to the Cinque Terre Nature Reserve. Such trips by bus or train are regularly organized for guests visiting nearby cities (Genoa, Pisa, Florence, Milan, Portofino, and others).

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