Valaam Island

Valaam Island is located in Karelia, it is spread out in the northern part of Lake Ladoga. It is the largest of the islands of the Valaam archipelago and the most famous. On its territory there are protected sanctuaries dear to the heart of every Russian. Here for many years have been preserved truly exclusive examples of Russian church architecture, to which not only pilgrims, but also ordinary tourists rush. The uniqueness of Valaam, incredibly beautiful and preserved its amazing nature almost in pristine condition, is also in the fact that here literally everything is saturated with Orthodox monastic culture.

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Video: Valaam

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Highlights

‘ View of the Skete of St. Nicholas
‘ Rocks on Valaam Island

Due to the unique flora and fauna, a natural park was created on Valaam, where various scientific researches are carried out. The subject of research is also the past of the island, shrouded in secrets and legends, which this holy corner of Russia is in no hurry to reveal…

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History of Valaam Island

The name of the island – “Valaam” – is derived from the Finno-Ugric word “valam”, which translates as mountainous (or high) land. Some researchers are of the opinion that it is comparable to the name of Vala, who came to the ancient Scandinavian mythology son of Odin. There is also a version that the name came from the name of the Slavic god Veles, who was worshipped by pagans and sacrificed to him here. The word “Balaam” is also mentioned in the Bible – as the name of a soothsayer who announced Christ.

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‘ class=”fancybox” >Map of Valaam Island and its neighboring islands, 1889

A male monastic monastery arose here in the XI – early XII century. Other historians adhere to the version that the monastery was founded much later, in the XII-XIV centuries. The beginning of the monastery, according to legend, was laid by Andrew the First-Called. It was he who established a stone cross during the spread of Christianity in the Russian lands. The monastic brotherhood on Valaam was founded by the Monks Herman and Sergius, who are especially revered here. For the next seven centuries the monastery developed, becoming a center of spiritual life.

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However, the chronicle of the island is not cloudless: throughout its history it has gone through many trials, often tragic. This blessed land became the scene of military clashes – in particular, with the Swedes, under whose rule, along with the whole of Karelia, Valaam stayed for more than a century. Epidemics broke out here, claiming human lives. During these events the monastery was almost completely destroyed, but thanks to the decree of Peter the Great it was revived again. This happened in 1715 after another war with the Swedish kingdom.

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Soon a stone building of the monastery saw the light of day. A little later, at the end of the XIX century, the churches of the sketes were built. What is interesting, materials for construction were not imported from outside – they were made right on the spot. Active construction on the island took place during the time of hegumen Damaskin (in the world – Damian Kononov), who is rightly called “the builder of Valaam”. Under him the number of monastic brethren also increased. Damaskin was revered not only as a superior, but also as a spiritual father, tirelessly caring for the salvation of the souls of the spiritual brothers entrusted to him. In his relations with them the hegumen was characterized by the utmost simplicity. His cell was always open, and anyone could pass to the abbot.

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Significant for this center of spiritual life was the year 1887, when the first stone was laid in the foundation of the future Transfiguration Cathedral – as we have already said above, the main cathedral of the monastery.

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With the advent of the 20th century, new trials came upon Valaam. In the period from 1918 to 1940, the island was part of Finland – a new independent state that emerged after the collapse of the Russian Empire. But even in these hard times the life of the monastery did not stop, although the brethren faced unprecedented hardships: every now and then there was hunger, various epidemics broke out. Besides, the Finns carried out fortification works on the island. They also established a new calendar, which was not obeyed by all the monks. Those who disagreed had to leave.

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By the end of 1939, relations between Finland and the USSR escalated, in November hostilities began between the states, which went down in history as the Winter War. Valaam, you could say, was on the front line, repeatedly bombed. The Soviet Union emerged victorious from this armed conflict, as a result of which, according to the peace treaty, a number of territories, including Valaam, were ceded to our country.

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After the war, which ended in March 1940, a completely different life began on the island. No bells rang as usual, no services were held. Another “god” reigned on Valaam, favored by the totalitarian system of the time – atheism. The churches, of course, were not used for their intended purpose, they were converted into stores and warehouses. In winter time wooden buildings were used as fuel. In addition, a school for juniors was opened on Valaam. And also organized a state farm.

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Despite the fact that the USSR was an atheist country, in 1979 the state decided to turn its face to this holy corner of old Russia. On the command “from above” restoration work was started. At the same time monastic life was resumed… By the way, in addition to monks, Valaam has a local population of about 460 people. It is not excluded that in the future it will be relocated to the town of Sortavala – at least, such plans exist.

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Legends and legends

If everything is more or less known about the history of Valaam Island since the monastery was founded here, the so-called “pre-Christian” period is shrouded in secrets and legends. Some of them are dominated by myths and legends of a predominantly pagan nature. In others, church motifs are also guessed. From this we can conclude that Valaam is the place where both directions of religious beliefs are intertwined.

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The most famous and widespread is the legend that tells about Valaam as the center or even the capital of the legendary Hyperborea – the mythical northern country where the people of the Hyperboreans lived. The sacrificial ditches and unusually shaped stone pyramids, which have survived to this day, suggest this. The legend says that the stargazer and astronomer Valaam chose this very place to convert the pagan Karelians to the Christian faith. He partially succeeded.

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Evidence has survived that near the island allegedly repeatedly seen representatives of an unusual tribe, similar in description to the European elves. Some mythologies consider them to be the ancestors of Sasquatch, others – his descendants.

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Near Valaam is the island of Divny, which is known for its strange, resounding from the depths of the water. The origin of these unusual sounds is still unclear. Scientists have tried to solve this mystery, but without success. Such strange behavior of natural elements even causes some concern: what is it still due to?

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But let’s return to the pagan period of the island’s history. A lot of legends and even indirect “evidence” have been preserved, not to mention very interesting artifacts, which testify to the fact that Valaam once had a cult significance for Karelian pagans. One of them is a rune stone, with which one of the main legends of pagan Valaam is connected. In the X century, the first monks first destroyed the inscription made of runes on it, and then erected an Orthodox cross in its place.

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And, of course, we can not fail to mention also the Kapishche of Veles, which allegedly preserved Celtic crosses, sacrificial chutes and masonry. Whether this is true or not, it is difficult to say with certainty. However, for fans of the mysterious and mysterious is important not to establish the truth as such, but the very fact that behind it all lies some mysticism, so tourists who want to touch the mysteries of the distant past rush to Valaam.

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Valaam sights

Valaam Island is a whole complex of churches, chapels and other unique structures. Only some of them have survived in pristine condition: Holy Transfiguration Cathedral, the Church of the Assumption, the Gate Church of Saints Peter and Paul, as well as the premises of the Red and White Sketes, the water house and the stable house.

To get to the Holy Transfiguration Cathedral, you need to be on the territory of the monastery of the same name. It is easy to do this by steps, coming from the side of the monastery bay. Many tourists expect to see on its walls and ceiling inherent in church buildings paintings. Except that there is nothing like that here. Of course, they were – in pre-revolutionary times. During the Soviet period the monastery buildings on Valaam were given to a club for bosuns, who studied and lived here. Apparently, the murals were considered as something superfluous and unnecessary from both historical and religious point of view, so they were painted over.

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Meanwhile, even deprived of pristine interior decoration, the cathedral still impresses with its grandeur and beauty. And the monastery itself is surrounded by a wall of red brick, against the background of which you can be photographed as a souvenir – the pictures are excellent. It is forbidden to take pictures inside the monastery.

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In addition to the main monastery yard Valaam monastery has several sketes, which are its, let’s say, “enclaves”, located in inaccessible places on the island. Sketes cannot be called uninhabited: as a rule, several monks or novices live here on a permanent basis. They are called skitniki.

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In 1911, hegumen Mauritius decided to create on Valaam some semblance of Jerusalem and built on the Mount of Olives Gethsemane skete. A year earlier there appeared a cross made of gray granite, on which the symbolism of Jesus Christ’s sufferings on the cross was applied. Here, at the foot of the mountain, appeared the “Russian” Gethsemane Garden. The church of the hermitage was crowned with tents and was consecrated in the name of the Dormition of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The external appearance of the building is dominated by carvings. But the interior – in particular, the iconostasis – is made of cypress. Near the hermitage there is a small wooden chapel, where the icon “Praying for the Cup” is kept. The cell blocks for the brethren, there are two of them, are located behind the church building, between the fir trees. In the 30th years Finnish military men were stationed in these rooms. Gethsemane Skete is also famous for the fact that the Old Believer confessor Timon once lived here.

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Somewhat earlier, in 1870, hegumen Damaskin founded the Konevsk skete. This place was named in honor of the Akathist or Konev icon. And the place for the skete was not chosen by chance: it was here that the father superior of the Valaam monastery spent time in solitude and prayer. First a chapel was built in the Konev skete, and then a full-fledged church was founded: its project was designed by G. Karpov. The nuns led a secluded and ascetic way of life, steadfastly honoring the statutes and not eating on holidays milk products and fish, which was abundant in the Igumenskiy (Konevskiy) lakes. Nowadays the Konev skete is inhabited by three people. The church named after Konevskaya Mother of God, which was restored, is the sanctuary of the hermitage and its card. However, tourists are not allowed to enter the church directly – you can stay only on the territory of the hermitage. An exception is made only for pilgrims. They can enter the temple, but only by prior arrangement.

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But the Vladimir Skete, also located on Valaam Island, is a fairly new construction. It was founded in our time, in 2002, and five years later all the construction work was completed. The development of the project belongs to the “Andrei Anisimov Workshop”. Architects Andrei Anisimov and Tatiana Efimova participated in its preparation. Their idea was that all the buildings of the hermitage would form a unified and complete architectural ensemble. On the territory was built a church in honor of Prince Vladimir. In 2008 it was consecrated by the Primate of the Russian Orthodox Church Alexy II. The temple, built in the Russian style with Art Nouveau elements, has two side chapels. The first in the name of all Russian saints, the second – in the name of St. Great Martyr Lyudmila. On the basement floor of the Vladimir Skete there is the Museum of the History of the Valaam Monastery. Patriarch Alexy II is given a separate room in it, because his holiness in his time as head of the Church did a lot for the revival of the Valaam Monastery.

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Relatively close to the central monastery estate, one and a half kilometers away, is located Nikolsky skete – one of the most beautiful on this unique island on Ladoga. It is reached by a road laid in the XVIII century. At first it passes directly through Valaam, and then runs along picturesque wooden bridges connecting other islands of the archipelago. In the same XVIII century St. Nicholas Skete received its first monks. At that time there were 12 of them, they were engaged in fishing and customs inspection. The latter was an urgent necessity, as it was forbidden to bring alcoholic beverages and tobacco products to Valaam. On the place where the tent church is located now, on the top of the hill, there used to be a small chapel with a lighthouse. The interior walls were painted by monks living on the territory of the hermitage, the main theme of their works was the life of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker. In 1861 a cross made of granite was erected here. It has survived to our days, and tourists are happy to see it. There is also a small wooden building, which in the past was a customs station. The cell block served as a dwelling for monks, it was restored during the period of rebuilding, in 1988.

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There is also a monastery farm on Valaam Island. It is located near the Konev skete and includes several buildings and a cowshed. Thanks to this farm, the small population of the island is provided with the necessary products: milk, meat. Milk, as well as home-baked bread is also served to tourists. On the spot are made and excellent cheese, which is famous far beyond Valaam – it is even supplied to stores in St. Petersburg.

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On the island, where nature is rich, also grow and cultivate cultural plants – apples, grapes. Watermelons and melons are grown in greenhouses. It is noteworthy that no modern technologies are used for agricultural production. Being on Valaam, tourists may even get the impression that they have moved to the era of subsistence farming.

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Another attraction that is definitely worth a visit is the Museum of everyday life. It has a historical and artistic focus, and it preserves exhibits that trace the history of Valaam Island from the earliest times. The museum exhibits paintings by such Russian artists as I. Shishkin, P. Balashov, A. Kuindzhi and F. Vasilyev. Connoisseurs of fine art in general and fans of the work of these masters in particular will be able to see their famous canvases in the original.

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Recreation and entertainment

Valaam is one of the centers of spiritual life, but there are also conditions for active recreation – just like in popular resorts. And, as they say, one does not interfere with the other. We are talking about diving. Yes, don’t be surprised: the part of Lake Ladoga adjacent to the island is a very attractive place for divers.

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Since the times of the Soviet-Finnish and Great Patriotic Wars, unique artifacts sunk in the depths of the lake have been preserved here: barges, ships, downed airplanes. The water in Ladoga is fresh, so materials decompose more slowly. This means that the underwater objects are practically not subjected to destruction, and divers will be able to see them in pristine condition.

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Except that beginners are better not to risk it. As diving experience shows, the level of training of the diver should be above average. You should also take into account that the waters of Ladoga, although quite transparent, but dark. Darkness thickens already at 10-meter depth. The situation is saved by lighting devices, they allow you to maintain good visibility when diving.

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The most interesting objects for divers off the coast of Valaam are the ships “Bethlehem” and “St. Helen”. The first sank in the 1960s in Divnaya Bay, this is the area of defense islands. The second ship “ordered to live long” about 15 years ago: it sank in Monastery Bay and is at a depth of 5 meters. Experienced divers diving in the area of “Bethlehem” find parts of the other ship. The Ladoga reportedly swallowed it back in the 19th century.

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Many believe that the best time for diving in Valaam – similar to popular warm resorts – is summer. But this opinion is wrong, because in the warm period of the year Ladoga water is more turbid than usual. Experience shows that the best time is early fall. At this time the water temperature is +7 degrees Celsius, and visibility reaches quite optimal 6 meters. But no matter what season you choose for diving, the success of your expedition depends entirely on the weather. Ladoga – it is like a real sea: a storm here can gather completely unexpectedly within 15-20 minutes.

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Transportation on the island

Traveling around the Valaam archipelago can be done in different ways, but preference is given to water transport. There are two bays on the main island, Monastery Bay and Nikonovskaya Bay.

To see the monastery from the lake side or visit other islands, tourists hire a boat or rent a rowing boat. Water transportation services are also provided by the administration of the Valaam Archipelago Nature Park. A four-hour trip in a boat on oars will cost 400 rubles. Two hours on a boat with a driver – 2500 rubles. The administration of the park organized and rent bicycles. Having paid 600 rubles, you can take the bike for a whole half day.

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Car transport runs on Valaam and motor transport – as a cab. Widely used goose transportation. You can hire a coachman with a horse for about 700 rubles per hour for one person. A trip from one pier to another will cost 500 rubles. For comparison: a trip by an ordinary cab along the same route will cost 400 rubles. The monastery has its own bus, only for passenger trips it is not provided.

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You can also move around the island on a bicycle, and also rented. But it is much more interesting to walk around Valaam on foot. On the island installed wooden pavilions with benches where you can sit down and relax. The benches are surrounded by trees with squirrels frolicking on their branches. These furry animals are not afraid of people at all. Many come down to the vacationers so low that you can even feed them from their hands.

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Tourists beware

In order to deeply penetrate these amazing places, one day will not be enough, so, planning a trip to Valaam, try to allocate as much time as possible for this trip, which promises to be one of the most memorable events in your life.

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On the trip you should dress warmly and bring a jacket, because Valaam is surrounded on all sides by the lake, and the water is always cooler. Your shoes should be closed, because despite the wooden decks, some places are wet and muddy. It is not very pleasant to step on them: you will get wet and dirty.

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Women visiting the active temples of Valaam should not be in pants, shorts, as well as with cleavage, transparent and short skirts. It is better for the fair sex to go to the excursion in a skirt, so as not to change clothes afterwards. Also sportswear is not welcome. The latter applies to men. The strong half of humanity is not allowed to visit churches in shorts, in a T-shirt and in a headdress. Women, on the contrary, must wear a headscarf.

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If you come to Valaam with hand luggage, you can leave your things in the storage room – it is located in the carriage house. And one more thing: there are ticks on Valaam, so it is not unreasonable to be vigilant.

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Sometimes tourists stay on the island longer than planned time, and besides their will. This usually happens in late summer and fall, when the Ladoga begins to storm. In such bad weather – it can last for several days – water transportation on the lake does not go out.

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Where to stay

There are three hotels in Valaam: “Igumenskaya”, “Zimnyaya” and “Mansarda”. In the summer you can stay in the school premises, where an additional hotel is equipped.

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If desired, tourists can also stay in the private sector. And travelers, for whom the main thing – unity with nature, can sleep in tents, set up in specially equipped places (so-called “tent cities”).

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Recently, tents are also allowed to be placed in tourist parking lots. One of them is called “Rocky shore”. This place is very beautiful, there is a lighthouse burning and, it seems, everything around is enveloped in a romantic atmosphere. A day’s stay costs 100 rubles. After payment you will be given a coupon. The forester may require you to show it to make sure that your stay at the parking lot is legal.

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On Valaam, if we talk in general, there are several regular tent parking lots. One is located on the so-called “first point”, the second is in the southeast of the island, in Divnaya Bay. The third parking lot is located near the weather station. It should be remembered that theoretically tourists can be refused to set up tents. The reasons are usually two: the presence of a general prohibition on visiting forests in the area, as well as a possible high level of fire danger.

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How to get there

The nearest settlement to Valaam is the town of Sortavala. There is a train from St. Petersburg every three days. On the way you will spend five and a half hours, the cost of a ticket – about 400 rubles.

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From Petrozavodsk to Sortavala run municipal buses, a day they go on routes more than a dozen. The cost of travel on such a bus from the capital of Karelia is about 600 rubles. On the road you will spend from four to seven hours.

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Many people do not want to depend on trains and passenger vehicles and prefer to get there by their own car. In this case, the 450-kilometer distance from Petrozavodsk to Sortavala you will overcome in just three and a half hours. Car owners are wondering: where to leave the car before going to the island itself? There is a parking lot at the pier. It is paid and guarded, so you can not worry about the safety of your “iron horse”.

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From May to November on Ladoga is the navigation season. During this period from the pier Sortavala to Valaam go both monastery and passenger and tourist ships. The distance to the island is only 40 kilometers, it is overcome by meteors in less than an hour (to be exact, in 45-50 minutes). But tourist motorboats usually go longer – more than an hour.

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On Friday, Saturday and Sunday there is usually a large influx of tourists, so there are problems with places on these days. The cost of travel in such a “meteor” on weekends is 900 rubles, on weekdays – 800 rubles. You can buy tickets directly on board. Children 7-12 years old are given a 50 percent discount, and young passengers who are under 7 years old are carried free of charge.

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Some tourists, again, do not want to “crowd” where it is crowded. And by analogy with an independent trip by car, they prefer to “catch” a private boat. Locals are happy to provide such a service to visitors. Of course, not for free. On the cost of such an “individual tour” are negotiated individually.

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Another route to Valaam runs from the Karelian town of Priozersk, which, as is clear from the name, is also located on the shores of the Ladoga. Both from Petrozavodsk and from the body of water itself it is at some distance. From the local pier to Valaam depart motor ships and meteors, but only once a day. Travel time is more than an hour, and the fare is a bit more expensive than from Sortavala. If you are traveling on your own, it is not always possible to return by the same route, as there may be no free seats – first of all, ships are filled with pilgrimage and excursion groups.

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