A. A. Blok’s Shakhmatovo Estate

Shakhmatovo Estate is part of the Alexander Blok and Dmitry Mendeleev Museum-Reserve, located in Solnechnogorsky District, Moscow Region. The house and garden belonged to the poet’s grandfather, in whose family he was brought up after Blok’s mother separated from his father. In Shakhmatov, the poet spent several months every year, about 300 poems were written here. In the vicinity of the estate, in Boblov, he met his future wife Lyubov, daughter of Mendeleev. Today’s estate complex “Shakhmatovo” has been restored according to the descriptions of Blok’s contemporaries and relatives and photographs from pre-revolutionary times.

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Video: Shakhmatovo Estate

Contents

History of Shakhmatov

The estate, acquired in 1874 by the botanical scientist Andrei Nikolaevich Beketov, then Dean of the Physics Department of St. Petersburg University, was part of a noble estate known since the 18th century. The purchase was recommended by Mendeleev, who had settled 9 years earlier nearby, in the Boblovo estate. Both the house and the territory were quite modest. A small gray pine building with multicolored windows and a green iron roof was surrounded by ornamental shrubs – lilacs, jasmine, rose hips. A birch driveway led to the house with a small outbuilding for 4 rooms at its very beginning. Going to the pond garden linden alley was designed for walking.

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The poet’s grandfather, in addition to scientific pursuits, was fond of literature, was familiar with many contemporary writers, grandmother Elizabeth Grigorievna was a recognized translator of artistic and natural science texts. The passion was inherited by his daughters: for example, Blok’s mother, Alexandra Andreevna, translated from French and published poems for children in magazines.

Images of Shakhmatov were reflected in Blok’s poetry, here he returned annually for vacation. In 1910 Blok, having inherited money from his father, completed the house, adding a study and a library. After 1916, the poet did not visit the estate because of the revolutionary events. The peasants who remained to guard it gradually emptied the building, and then, in 1921, and burned it down.

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Reconstruction of the manor

During the Soviet era, the estate stood destroyed until in 1984 a museum-reserve was established, which included Shakhmatovo, Mendeleev’s Boblovo and Tarakanovo. The interiors of the house were recreated according to the memoirs of the poet’s first biographer, his aunt Maria Beketova, who mentioned in her books the smallest details down to the arrangement of furniture and the color of wallpaper. In 2001, a copy of the old building was opened to the public, but the work to recreate the original appearance of the estate has not been completed to date.

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Shakhmatov’s exhibits

The museum had no collection of its own when it was founded, but now, thanks to government purchases and the generosity of donors, there are about 9,000 exhibits and 15,000 books related to the history of the Shakhmatovo estate and Blok’s work. Among the most valuable items are autographs of poems, correspondence of relatives and friends with the poet, and an official record of Blok’s marriage to Mendeleev’s daughter. Archives of Blok’s publishers, literary scholars and critics include rare photographs of the poet in amateur performances at the estate, books with his autographs. The library contains all Blok’s lifetime editions, literary periodicals of his time, first translations of poems and poems into foreign languages. Personal belongings and household items belonged to Blok’s grandparents, his mother and aunts, wife and father-in-law. Thanks to the fact that the furniture was taken out of the estate before the fire, some authentic furnishings have survived – these are mirrors, dressers, chairs, armchairs, and a etagere.

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Museum Exposition

The collection is housed in 10 rooms-rooms. The tour begins with a sparsely furnished front room with a rack of Blok’s great-uncle. In the smart and bright room of Elizaveta Beketova, a towel embroidered by her hands is kept. In the Blue Drawing Room, where the Mendeleev and Solovyev families, the poet’s literary friends, were received, there is a piano given by Marietta Shaginian, on which Rachmaninov played. The dining room is connected to the park through a balcony door. In Andrei Beketov’s room there is a genuine desk with a green lamp, armchairs, a mirror, a nightstand; in the room of Blok’s wife there is a mirror, a bedspread and a flower cachepot belonging to her. On the second floor – a bright, panoramic view of Blok’s study with his traveling box and bench. The armchair and bookcase were brought from his St. Petersburg apartment.

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These items have become part of the permanent exhibition, which can be seen year-round, but many of the exhibits: photographs, books, works by artists – are part of a traveling exhibition devoted to Blok’s role in the history of the Silver Age of Russian art, in demand throughout the country. Thematically, the narrower traveling exhibit is linked to Blok’s Shakhmatov.

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Tours of the estate complex

In Shakhmatov, tourists will be offered three thematic excursions: through the restored house, through the territory of the estate and through the outbuilding with an exhibition dedicated to Blok’s childhood. The cost of the complex excursion is 800 rubles per person without discounts. A ticket without a tour with a visit to the house, outbuilding and garden will cost 170 rubles for adults and 130 rubles for pensioners and schoolchildren under 14 years of age. The reconstructed stables of the poet offers horseback riding with a foot instructor, who guards the rider, hours-long trips to the fields for experienced riders, riding lessons, riding in a carriage, and in winter – in a sleigh. Recently, in addition to the stables, they have opened a bicycle rental for a ride along the route “Shakhmatovo – Tarakanovo” and back.

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Entertainment programs for children

There are special programs for children aged 5-12 in Shakhmatovo: Birthdays in the noble manor, “Botanical walks” in the forest and garden, work in the bookbinding workshop and on a handwritten journal, celebration of Shrovetide, playing croquet, mobile folk games. Birthday celebrations include a birthday greeting for the celebrant, a tour of the house and estate, a workshop on beadwork, making an antique greeting letter or cardboard, games and a tea party – all in 2 hours.

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Tourist Information

The complex “Shakhmatovo” is located 82 km northwest of the capital. Do not confuse the protected object with the semi-abandoned village of the same name, lying a few kilometers to the west. The route runs along the Leningradskoye highway through Solnechnogorsk, then cars turn north to the village of Tarakanovo, lying half an hour’s drive from the city, after the village go 3 km south to the Shakhmatovo estate. Between Solnechnogorsk and Tatarinovo runs bus number 24.

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The roads in the immediate vicinity of the estate complex are country roads, there is nowhere to hide from the rain, there is no cafe in the immediate vicinity, which is honestly warned by the official site of the object. The cafeteria sells water and sometimes ice cream, on special occasions – pastries. Parking for private vehicles is located within walking distance from the main entrance to the estate complex.

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Tickets and schedule

The museum welcomes guests Wednesday through Sunday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., with Saturday visits extending to 8 p.m. from May through the end of August. Organized groups can come by prior arrangement from 6 to 8 p.m. on any working day – the main exhibition and manor stables are extended for this time. On holidays the entrance is free of charge. Photography indoors and on the territory of the garden for an additional fee – 50 rubles per person. You can rent an audio guide for 150 rubles.

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