Medina of Tunisia

Tunis Medina

Tunis Medina is the beautifully preserved historic center of Tunisia, a UNESCO heritage site since 1979. The medina is most easily accessed from Place de la Victoire (Victory Square) through the Bab el-Bahr gate, which means “Gate of the Sea”. The narrow Rue Jamaa ez-Zitouna leads to the souk. Walking between the shops with goods for tourists from the very beginning resembles an execution: you walk as if through a formation with spitzruthenes. Everyone, of course, is eager to sell their goods to you. After a hundred meters it becomes even narrower and darker, as here begin the brick vaults, protecting the interior of the market from the sun and rain.

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General Information

Soon after, you find yourself back out in front of the venerable Zitouna Mosque, the Olive Tree Mosque. For a small fee, you can peek into the courtyard of this temple, founded in the 8th century and since then rebuilt several times. The colonnade surrounding the courtyard is finished in a beautiful majolica pattern. Above it, like a delicate lace, runs a white molding, which even higher up, on the ceiling, gives way to elegant carvings on dark wood. The square minaret with the so-called “lantern” superstructure, typical of Moorish-Andalusian architecture, makes a great impression. Like almost everywhere else in the country, the roof of the mosque is covered with green glazed tiles, and the top of the minaret is decorated with four golden balls, the symbolic meaning of which remains a mystery to this day. Only Muslims can enter the prayer hall with its forest of ancient columns (Arab architects liked to plunder Roman ruins). Since the mosque, contrary to custom, is not oriented strictly to the southeast (toward Mecca), there is an assumption that it was built on the foundations of a Roman forum.

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The mosque is the heart of the souks, some of which adjoin the outer wall of the mosque, such as Souk al-Atgarin on the north side. In general, it is impossible to get lost here, although the confusion of streets and alleys at first confuses you: every time the signs will lead you back to Mosquee or Jamaa ez-Zitouna. And the nature of the terrain itself helps too: uphill streets lead from Zitouna back to Place de la Victoire, uphill to Place de la Kasbah, the western exit from the medina. So you can wander carelessly through rows packed with shiny and fragrant merchandise: Souk el-Attarine, full of incense, herbs and spices; Souk et-Truk, with its carpet shops, each promising you a great view of the Zitoun Mosque from its rooftop terrace; Souk ech-Chechia, where the ancient art of making felt hats (sheshiy), for which Tunisian craftsmen used to be famous throughout the Arab world, has been preserved; or the Souk el-Berka market, where slaves were once sold and gold jewelry now glistens in the windows. All these streets and squares are covered with roofs. Bare bulbs and neon tubes illuminate the market crowd and the patiently waiting vendors. Every corner has a different flavor, and the pleasure would be complete if it weren’t for the annoying ringleaders trying to drag tourists each into their own stalls.

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However, there are a few cultural attractions in the Medina that should not be overlooked: immediately to the left (south) of the mosque is the Trois Medersas complex. The former high schools of the Koran used to house students from the educated strata of Islamic society. These buildings, which have been carefully restored in some places, are now used for the work of various associations or for cultural and social initiatives. One of the madrasas houses a medical association and the Medersa Bachia a school of arts and crafts. Through the gate you can look into the inner courtyard. Opposite is Medina’s most famous bathhouse: the entrance to Hammam ech-Kachachine can be recognized by its red and green striped columns.

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If you pass through the residential neighborhoods of Medina and move south along Tourbet el-Bey Street, you will come to the mausoleum of the Husseinite dynasty, Tourbet el-Bey. Built in the 18th century, the Italian Renaissance influence is evident both inside and out, especially in the multi-colored marble set decoration. In the main hall and neighboring rooms under domes decorated with elegant stucco, the rulers of the Ottoman era from the Huseynite dynasty are buried. The tombs of the men can be recognized by the turban crowning the column at the headboard.

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After walking literally a hundred meters, but taking a few turns, you will reach Dar Ben Abdallah, the Ethnographic Museum on Rue Sidi Kacem. Behind the outer gate, a right-angled passage leads to the courtyard from which the private and ceremonial chambers of this former dignitary’s house begin. This entrance arrangement ensured that no passerby could peer into the family’s private life from the street. The beautifully restored rooms are furnished in 19th century style. Mannequins depict scenes such as “Preparing the bride for the wedding” or “The head of the family reading the Koran.”

A few streets away, near the Dyer Mosque, on Rue el-M’Bazz (Rue el-M’Bazz), one of the most luxurious palaces – Dar Othman (Dar Othman) with a cozy courtyard – has been preserved. This building, built in the early 17th century by Othman Dey, also features a variety of decorations. The framing of the gates and arches, executed in black and white marble, is particularly noteworthy.

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From the palace Dar Ben-Abdallah best to go back the same way in the direction of the mosque Zituna and there on the street Sidi Ben Arous (Rue Sidi Ben Arous) to follow the mosque and the mausoleum of Hammouda Pasha (Hammouda Pacha) XVII century. Opposite, Souk ech-Chechia runs along the rows of sheshiya makers. These felt hats, mostly burgundy in color, were once considered a symbol of male status. They are still valued today. One Tunisian lady designer has modernized the look of these caps, turning brightly colored sheshiyas into demier cri (the last cry of fashion), for which she has even received personal praise from former president Ben Ali. There are two cafes on Suq al-Sheshiya, both of which are favorite gathering places for young people.

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Souk el-Sheshiya ends at the Dar el-Bey Palace, a heavily guarded government residence be careful about taking pictures! Next to it is the Youssef Dey Mosque, an early 17th century temple. This mosque, built near the “Turkish” bazaars (al-Truk, al-Barka), served as a place of prayer for migrants from the Ottoman Empire. Unlike Zitouna, its minaret is octagonal, with a balcony for the muezzin covered with a wooden canopy. Nowadays, however, the muezzin calls for prayer through a loudspeaker, without bothering with the tedious climb. It is worth paying attention to the decoration of the outer walls of this cubic building, which are dissected by arches and niches. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the richly decorated interior with the tomb of Yusuf Dey.

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Rue Sidi Ben Ziad leads past the mosque to Kasbah Square, densely planted with plane trees. On your left hand you can see the only remnant of the former kasbah (fortress), the Mosquee de la Kasbah (Mosque of the Kasbah) with its beautiful square minaret in Andalusian style.

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If you want to experience the flip side of the Medina, take the Rue de la Kasbah back to the Old City and turn left from Rue Sidi Ben Arous. This road leads through a residential neighborhood to the urban area of Bab Souika. This part of the Medina used to be inhabited by refugees, often in very cramped and primitive conditions, in emergency houses. Gradually, many of the houses were restored. Today this street is decorated with elegant hotels, restaurants, antique stores and a bookstore with a chic café. In one of these “rescued” mansions,Dar Lasram, is home to the Society for the Preservation of Medina (ASM), which, in cooperation with UNESCO (and Medina is a World Heritage Site), promotes various urban development projects.

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The Sidi Mahres Mosque at the northern end of the Medina, a little short of the busy Place Bab Souika, is dedicated to the patron saint of the city of Tunis. Its shining white domes give it an appearance quite untypical of Tunisian tradition.

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The main artery of the New Town (Ville Nouvelle) of Tunis, a district with a distinct French accent, is the former Avenue Jules Ferry, now named after the first Tunisian president, Habib Bourguiba (Avenue Habib Bourguiba). This avenue leads from the port and from the Tunis-Marine station of the TGM (Tunis-Goulet-Marsa) railway line to Place Victoire. Along it and the boulevards and avenues that cross it are luxurious examples of Art Deco, Classicism and Art Nouveau in the best European traditions, some of which are still perfectly preserved. The jewel of Bourguiba Avenue is the Theatre municipal, one of the three elegant Art Nouveau theaters that opened their doors on this street in the early 20th century. And here is an example of the Moorish style – the Cathedral of Tunis, whose portal is formed by horseshoe-shaped arches, and towers are topped with domes in the form of turbans. The facade of the former Magasin General trading house is decorated in the Classicist style. And these are just a few examples of the interesting architecture of the “New Town”, created by and for the French during the Protectorate, in the 20th century. The ASM Society is nowadays caring for the structures of this era as well.

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