Ladoga Skerries

Ladoga Skerries is a unique nature reserve located in Karelia, in the northern and northwestern part of Lake Ladoga, and consists of 650 rocky islands of various sizes. The word “skhera” (Swedish skär, Old Scandinavian sker) literally translates as “rock in the sea”. Occupying an area of more than 120 thousand hectares, they, characterized by a pronounced broken coastline, stretch almost 100 km from the island of Kilpola in the west (this is near the village of Berezovo) to the small urban settlement of Pitkäranta in the east.

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Video: Ladoga skerries from a height

Contents

General Information

The islands of the Ladoga skerries, almost half of which, which is 53 thousand hectares, occupy the water area, are divided by straits, channels and bays. All together it is a magnificent in its picturesque region, where the land areas are distributed over the water surface as if someone arbitrarily scattered them. The landscape of these places is so unique that one can hardly see something similar anywhere else in Russia. In many corners of the archipelago the nature is so pure and virgin, as if no man has ever set foot here. Although, maybe in some places and really did not set foot, because to inspect, explore and study the entire archipelago in a short time is impossible, for this and a whole year will not be enough.

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Traveling through the Ladoga skerries, which is best done by motorboat, gives you the opportunity to get in touch with the unique nature of this northern region in all its beauty and splendor. When you come here, you find yourself far away from civilization with its frantic rhythm of life, sometimes leaving no chance for a person to find peace and harmony. Therefore, if these places used to be favored by hermit monks, then today they are visited by those who want to escape at least for a while from the oppressive atmosphere of modern cities and everyday life. And the coast of Lake Ladoga is ideal for this purpose!

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History

The Ladoga Skerries archipelago emerged over two and a half thousand years ago thanks to a glacier that literally “plowed” the Karelian land. It happened as follows: a huge block moving from the north polished on its way the surfaces of the mountains, squeezing out the top layer of soil from under itself and leaving behind excavations. As a result of exaration (this is the scientific name for this process), a complex relief was formed, which later disappeared under the water, and only the highest parts of the land remained above its surface. And further worked already nature itself, turning these lands into a magnificent reserve of fantastic beauty, landscapes which are known not only in our country, but also far beyond its borders.

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The organization of a protected area in these places has been planned since the end of the last century. On this occasion in 1990, a decree was even adopted, which regulated the creation in the Karelian ASSR network of specially protected natural areas, which was proposed to include and Ladoga. Four years later the creation of a national natural park was approved by the government of the autonomous republic. The territory of 84 thousand hectares was allocated for it and economic activities were restricted. Another year later, the idea to expand the park, increasing its territory to 124 thousand hectares.

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In 1999, the future nature park received support under the TACIS program developed by the European Union to help accelerate economic reforms in the CIS countries. Within two years a municipal enterprise “Ladoga Skerries” was formed in Sortavala, which was entrusted with the responsibility of preparing the park for operation. The total cost of the project amounted to 3.5 million euros. In 2001, the allocation of plots on the territory of the future park for the construction of dacha cooperatives was suspended.

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In 2007 it was decided to create not a natural but a national park “Ladoga Skerries” on the area of 220 thousand hectares. However, in subsequent years, its territory was repeatedly reduced: agricultural land and areas for the use of hunting resources were taken out of the park, and agreements on the lease of forest areas for timber harvesting were terminated. Thus, the area of the “Ladoga Skerries” was reduced to 122 thousand hectares.

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In January 2016, the Federal Service for Supervision of Natural Resources approved the conclusion of the state environmental expertise, which justified the need to give this area the status of a conservation area of federal importance. Then the then Head of the Republic of Karelia Alexander Khudilainen initiated a meeting at the Ministry of Natural Resources and Ecology of Russia, at which land plots with a total area of about 3750 hectares were excluded from the territory of the future park. And, finally, on December 28, 2017, the government of our country adopted a decree on the formation of the national park “Ladoga Skerries” in Karelia, in the North-West Ladoga region.”

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Islands and coastline

The largest islands of the Ladoga skerries, scattered along the water surface like fjords, are six: Kilpola, Sorolansaari, Putsaari, Kuhka, Riekkalansari and Lauvatsari. The most famous and popular among tourists is Kilpola. It is connected to the mainland by a bridge located in the narrowest part of the strait. Standing on it, you can observe an unusual and mesmerizing spectacle – the current arising right in the middle of the Ladoga.

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The front part of the skerries is characterized by an impeccably smooth surface and for this reason it is often called “ram’s foreheads”. In contrast, the rear part is rather “rough” and more unapproachable. The Karelians themselves call these rocky formations “curly rocks.”

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Note that for ships traveling on Lake Ladoga, skerries are potentially unsafe, as some of them barely protrude above the water. However, for tourists and all lovers of active recreation these places are a real paradise, because, for example, in the lakes of the central part of Russia skerries are almost not found. True, there are similar rocky islands in other parts of Ladoga, but here they are presented in all their glory: granite rocks look as if they are about to break right into the water…

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It draws attention to the fact that the islands of the Ladoga skerries have Finnish names, and this is not surprising, because up until 1940 these territories were part of neighboring Finland. Fragments of former Finnish farmsteads, surrounded by pine trees, have survived to this day, they can be seen on the tops of the hills.

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The island of Kilpola is characterized by a complex, rugged shape. It is impossible to describe it in the usual geometric terms, as the coast resembles ornate patterns. There are several bodies of water on this island, the largest of which is Lake Vitsalampi. The Karelian population has been living on this piece of land since time immemorial. The “patterned” shoreline of Vitsalampi is “occupied” by tourists who stay at the existing recreation centers. The nearest settlement to the island is the village of Hiitola.

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Sorolansaari Island, or Sorola Island, is located in the same area, and also inhabited, there is a village called Sorola. Its inhabitants are connected to the mainland by a wooden bridge. The island itself is characterized by its elongated shape: with a length of 7.5 km it is only 3 km wide. The Finns amusingly call the tiny lakes on this small piece of land “bulbs”. There are also streams here. The tallest of the rocks can boast a “height” of 90 meters. In the artificial cave at Cape Tinatsu once mined quartz.

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While Sorolansaari has only one village, Riekkalansari (Finnish for “Greek island”) has eight. What is interesting is that the first written mention of it, found in Swedish sources, dates back to 1500. These historical documents mention the ancient church of St. Nicholas. The island is connected to the mainland by a pontoon bridge.

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Kuhka Island is small, with an area of only 7 by 2.4 km. Attributed to the Lahdenpohsky district, it has a unique location on the terrain, namely surrounded by three narrow bays at once. The island is also remarkable because it is densely covered with forest. To the east with it in large numbers neighbor tiny rocky islets, the tops of which stick out of the water like the heads of bathers.

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Another island in the Ladoga skerries – Lauvatsaari – is also uninhabited, stretching 3.7 km long and 1.2 km wide, it is located south of the Tervu peninsula. The highest point on this stretch of land is a mountain that reaches 56 meters in height. The coast is rocky, abruptly dropping sharply into the water.

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The small island of Putsaari is not far from Valaam, only 20 km away. Not far from it and to the mainland – less than a kilometer. In former times it had the name of St. Sergius, receiving it in honor of Sergius of Valaam. In the XIX century the island was rented by the Valaam Monastery, in its quarry they extracted granite for facing the monastery buildings. This material was also supplied from here to St. Petersburg, where it was used in the construction of the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ. The pedestal of the monument to Empress Catherine II is also made of stone from Putsaari. This quarry has not survived to our days, but now there is a lake with purest water in its place. About the “Valaam past” of the island reminds the worshipful cross erected in honor of Emperor Alexander II, who gave the island of Putsaari to the monastery.

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Flora and fauna

There is almost no vegetation on the islands facing the open Ladoga. And it is not surprising: the rocks have been bare as a result of the strongest winds and storms. But on the Ladoga skerries we see a diametrically opposite picture. This area is incredibly rich in forests, where spruces and pines, firs and maples, Siberian larches, lindens and elms grow, not to mention the brilliant green mosses covering the trees. Looking at all this natural abundance, one can’t help but wonder how such a large number of trees, as well as a lot of shrubs of various species could grow on these rocks. The clue to this phenomenon lies in their powerful root system.

It is also noteworthy that in the interior of the islands there are mostly slender trees, while on the coast prevail specimens with curved trunks and branches, which, however, in no way seem ugly – rather the opposite. On the islands of Ladoga skerries there are also strawberry bushes, blueberries, raspberries, cowberries and blueberries. And at the end of July the “quiet hunting” season begins on the archipelago – mushroom season.

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Ladoga skerries are covered with vegetation, like a rich and expensive carpet. It combines different colors, configurations, shapes, shades, including inflorescences, leaves and thorns of various species. To describe all this palette, there are not enough words and flights of fancy – this splendor must be seen with your own eyes. Just one, but very eloquent figure: in the bays and straits of the archipelago, its lakes, streams and swamps, located in the depths of the largest of its islands, grows about 120 species of aquatic plants.

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The fauna of the Ladoga skerries is no less rich. Here is a real fish kingdom, represented by more than 50 species of fish, among them salmon and perch, trout and pikeperch, bream and ruffed grouper, zander and bluefin, gouster and smelt. The aquatic world of this part of Ladoga remains the object of scientific research by scientists-ichthyologists. At the same time, the lake is also favored by fishermen, who usually aim at catching Ladoga pikeperch, which is found along the southern and southeastern coast. Unfortunately, these places do not leave without their criminal attention and poachers, because of the activities of which the situation with pikeperch, according to experts, today is deplorable.

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Most of the islands of the Ladoga skerries – a real playground for birds. According to ornithologists, there are 250 species of birds on the archipelago. Some of them are migrating, that is, making a “rest” in these places. And such as some species of gulls, gray duck, sandpiper, teal, common eider and others, have made this part of Ladoga their permanent home – they nest here.

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Hares, foxes, ermines, moose, martens and other animals remain an integral part of the local fauna. In general, the fauna of the skerries area counts 35 species. The Ladoga ringed seal is an endemic species listed in the Red Book back in 1984. The life cycle of this representative of pinnipeds, a distant relative of the Baltic seal, takes place in freshwater environment. But, in contrast to its “relative”, the Ladoga seal is smaller in size and lighter in color. An adult individual usually weighs no more than 35 kg. It is noteworthy that this inhabitant of Lake Ladoga is disliked by fishermen, and for what reason: families, usually consisting of 7-15 animals, eat fish from the spread nets. Taking into account that currently there are about 4000-5000 seals on Ladoga, fishing farms raise the question of the need to reduce their numbers through licensed shooting, which, of course, is opposed by conservation organizations.

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Attractions

The Reef Mountains are one of the most remarkable places on the Ladoga skerries. They are sheer rocky cliffs. The highest are Pekanriutta reef in Mäkisalo (92 m) and Mount Kontiosuo (89 m). Some of the cliffs have limestone, which allows the rarest plant species to grow here. If it were not for the limestone, they would not grow in these climates.

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Tourists traditionally do not ignore the St. George’s Skete located on the island of Putsaari, which belongs to the Valaam Monastery. In the past, this attraction served as a refuge for hermit monks. Beautiful views of the golden domes of Valaam’s monastery churches can be seen from the rocky promontory of Hunnuka Island.

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How to get there

From St. Petersburg, from the northern bus station “Murino” to Sortavala 3-4 times a day there are buses. The route runs along the highway A-121, which is ringed by Lake Ladoga, with a passage through Priozersk and Lahdenpokhya. After reaching these settlements, travelers catch a cab, they take them to small settlements on Lake Ladoga. Travelers who choose a bus, should remember that in this form of transport is not quite convenient to carry tourist equipment.

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If you have a lot of luggage, it is better to get to Ladoga skerries by train. From the Finland station of the Northern capital, trains run to the station Kuznechnoye. Not far from it there are always cab cars on duty, which will take you to your destination for 300-400 rubles. In the case of being late for the train, you do not need to despair. You can get from the same station to Priozersk, where you can also catch a cab. The fare will cost more expensive, but not much, as Priozersk and Kuznechnoye are separated by only 20 km.

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By private car, which is most convenient, especially if you have equipment, you will be able to get there by Novopriozerskoye highway (highway A-121). From the ring road to Lekhmalahti Bay, where the skerries begin, is 150 km, which can be overcome within 1.5-3 hours. Travel time depends on the presence of traffic jams.

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To get directly to the archipelago, the traveler will need a boat. In Lahdenpokhya or Sortavala can rent a paddleboat or arrange with the captain of the boat for delivery to the islands. Or, alternatively, a tourist can bring his own inflatable boat.