Gili Islands

The Gili Islands are three small islets just off the northwest coast of Lombok. Here there is everything to wear the proud definition of “paradise”: long half-empty beaches with white sand, crystal clear water full of colorful corals, flocks of exotic fish…. In the shade of tamarind trees lie those whose lives are mostly successful, admiring the views of the Agung volcano, lazily sipping mojitos and discussing what to do after sunset – night diving or dancing in one of the many bars. The three islands, like three pearls in a tropical crown, are not far from each other and lure tourists with whatever they can. One thing the Gili Islands have in common is the lack of fresh water. All water is imported, and from the shower pours desalinized sea water (where more, where less), in which even to soap a washcloth is very difficult.

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Video: Gili Islands

Contents

Gili Trawangan

Gili Trawangan is the largest, most remote and most partying. Along the shoreline on either side of the pier stretch a line of bungalows and cottage resorts, from the most unassuming to the four-star level. They are interspersed with signs for dive centers, internet cafes (400 Rp/min), restaurants, bars and nightlife. All this is concentrated on a stretch of about two kilometers, beyond which there is a tropical silence and sea grace. Rare bungalows are found on the northern and southern coasts, and the western coast is virtually undeveloped. Once exiled prisoners, later the island was settled by the families of Butis – a nationality from Sulawesi, and in the 70’s of the last century about the paradise place learned about the hippies, developed it and gave rise to the tourist era in the history of Gili.

The main contingent of vacationers on Trawangan – informal youth. During the day, she sleeps off, lying on the sand or sailing off for diving. As night approaches, everything changes around – life is just beginning! There are no police here. The authorities have made an unspoken pact with the natives: “We don’t help you, but we don’t meddle in your affairs either. Survive as you wish.” As a result, the island has become one of the few places in the world where marijuana and hallucinogens, which have become Trawangan’s trademark, are legal. “Yes! We have those damn magic mushrooms that will take you to heaven and bring you back without the aid of transportation!” – shout from every bar, posters bearing explicit drawings. There have been cases of poisoning and injuries caused by tourists who had too much “mushroom shake” and did not control their behavior. Getting poisoned on Trawangan – what could be more symbolic?

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In the evenings, the crowd disperses to bars and clubs. The most famous is Rudy’s, with its reckless bartenders who perform mesmerizing dances as they work. A lot of people come to see these guys, and at the same time to take on the chest and smoke not cigarettes. On Fridays in the high season there are parties with music until almost morning. On Mondays, nightlife enthusiasts flock to the Blue Marlin Cafe, and on Wednesdays to Tir Na Nog. The most reckless parties on holidays with the invitation of reggae bands is famous for the bar “Sama-Sama”, where tired in the morning musicians are often replaced by the audience, playing instruments no worse. Older and quieter people prefer to sit in restaurants and cafes, which are abundant on Trawangan.

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All gasoline vehicles are prohibited on the island, so you can move only on foot, by bicycle or horse-drawn carriages snooping back and forth along the coastal road. Thankfully, the distances are short, and the perimeter of Trawangan can be walked around in 3 – 4 hours (the bicycle route takes about 40 minutes).

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Diving and snorkeling

Gili Trawangan has become the base for many dive schools with branches in Senggigi. These are all based in resorts on the south east coast and often have pools for beginners to learn in. The best and well-established dive centers are Dream Divers (www.dreamdivers.com), Dive Indonesia (www.dive.indonesia.com), Big Bubble (bigbubble.com), and Vila Ombak Diving Academy. Prices at all centers are about the same. The surrounding waters are teeming with coral and deep-sea fauna, so it is not surprising that many tourists come here solely for diving. Snorkeling enthusiasts prefer the northeastern part of the island, where the reefs start right from the shore. If you wish, you can take a ride on a glass-bottom boat or book a snorkeling trip on a boat around the islands (about 50,000 Rp per person).

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Places of recreation and entertainment

Snorkeling on Gili Trawangan has one problem: it’s hard not to find, but to choose. As a result, drugged-out tourists manage to visit five or six establishments in an evening, without eventually reaching their bungalow.

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Gili Meno

Gili Meno (Gili Meno) is the smallest and most laid-back. In fact, it is the antipode of Trawangan, separated only by a narrow strait. Nightlife and entertainment died on it before it was born. An oval, stretched by the size of 1×2 km, with a beautiful salt lake, a dozen or two bungalow-type resorts, a mosque and the Gili Meno Bird Park – that’s all that is Meno. But what a relaxed atmosphere! If you want to lie on an empty beach with your loved one or just by yourself with no one for a hundred meters around, come here! The pier is located on the eastern shore and most of the bungalows are concentrated here. As a rule, guests eat in their own restaurants or go from nothing to do in the neighboring ones. The coastal waters are exceptionally good for snorkeling, especially in the east of the island, but be aware of the currents. There is a Wartel telephone intercom with internet access just off the pier.

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The main entertainment for visitors to Gili Meno is, of course, snorkeling and diving (a kit can be rented for Rp 20,000) and glass bottom boat rides.

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There’s also a wonderful bird park with many species including parrots, a few small deer and Komodo dragons languishing in captivity.

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Gili Air

Measuring 1.5 x 1.5 kilometers, Gili Air is the island closest to the pier and therefore the most populated. In fact, it’s a mix of partying Trawangan and quiet Meno. There are on it and empty remote bays with rare bungalows, and cheerful bars with parties until late at night, and even their own “parties of the full moon”, with dancing until you fall to the music that can be heard as far away as Bangsala. Blue Marlin and Dream Divers have branches on the island, but snorkeling on Gili Air is more popular, especially on the beaches of the southeast coast. Everything you need can be rented locally, as can a glass-bottom boat (50,000 Rp per person, minimum 6 persons).

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All the main life, including food outlets and hotels, is mainly concentrated in the east of the island.

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Transportation

Getting to Gili due to their popularity is no problem at all.

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A small pier in Lombok’s Bang Sala outfits regular public boat trips to all 3 islands. Each holds about 20 people, with a ticket to the furthest Trawangan costing Rp 8,000. During the rainy season when the sea swell increases, flights may be canceled indefinitely. From Senggiga there is a daily 9.00am Regatta boat (one and a half hours, 40,000 Rp). Plenty of charter boats connect the Gili Islands and Bali’s Amed, but the cost is high, around $70. At any Bali resort, you can buy tourist bus tickets to Gili, which includes a ferry crossing and a boat ticket (“Regatta” uses its own water transportation). Between the islands you can easily travel by private boats, which are moored in great numbers, prices and distances are small.

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Leaving Trawangan is most convenient by shuttle boat at 8.15, Air at 8.30. A charter to Bangsal will cost Rp 90,000 – Rp 70,000 and to Senggigi will cost Rp 250,000. Dashing cab drivers and motorcycle riders are on duty at the Bangsala jetty, promising to take you anywhere at inflated prices. A cab to Mataram and Senggigi costs Rp 60,000, to the jetty in Lembar Rp 100,000. It is better to walk to the main road (200 – 300 m) and catch transportation there. A motorcycle ride to Mataram along the beautiful mountain slopes will cost 30,000 Rp – virtually a free tour of Lombok’s natural beauty!

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