Provence
Provence is a historical region of France, occupying the southeastern part of the country. The name Provence itself dates back to the Roman conquest of Gaul. The Romans called the southern lands beyond the Alps “Provincia Nostra” – “our province”, or simply “Provincia” – “province”. Today, this historical territory is officially part of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region, while the Provence areas themselves are administratively divided among the six departments of the region.
Video: Provence
Contents- Face of Provence
- History
- Geography
- Climate of Provence
Culture - Bouches-du-Rhone (Mouth of the Rhone)
- Vaucluse
- Upper Alps
Upper Provence Alps - Maritime Alps
- Var
- Provence Cuisine
Souvenirs from Provence - Where to stay
- Transportation
- How to get there
The Face of Provence
Provence is layered and variegated. It is illuminated by unusually rich sunlight and painted with dazzling colors that inspired the famous artists who created here. The image of Provence is painted by the sun and the sea, windswept mountain plateaus and river gorges, medieval villages clinging to impregnable mountain steeps, and lavender fields that fill the surrounding towns with a magical fragrance, which resemble the scenery of movies about fairy-tale kingdoms. This corner of France is a great place to travel, whether you choose to climb dry, scrubby mountain slopes and sun-whitened cliffs, or explore green river valleys with rushing streams and waterfalls.
.Provence is a luxurious sea and ski resorts, beautiful historical museums, galleries of modern art, the splendor of architecture of old towns. Travelers from all over the world rush here on the days of the theater festival in Avignon, bullfights in Arles and Nîmes, carnivals, lavender festivals held in many cities.
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Provence is where the legend of the lively and open French character was born. It is full of smiles, laughter, divine food and great wine. Market day in any town of Provence is a real noisy and bright holiday, imbued with the aroma of peaches, wild strawberries, honey melons, figs, mushrooms, sharp cheese, spicy herbs. And very close to the bustling square you will certainly find a charming quiet cafe, where it is pleasant to relax from the bustle, drinking a glass of cool rose wine or a shot of fragrant aniseed tincture pastis.
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History
The fertile shores of the Mediterranean Sea, to which the southern parts of Provence extend, have long been known to the peoples who created classical civilizations. The Phoenicians were the first to land on the coast of Provence, later the Greeks appeared here and founded numerous factories on the coast – Massalia (now Marseille), which eventually became a real trading empire, Nike (Nice), Antinopolis (Antibes), Kifarista (La Ciotat).
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After the decline of the Roman Empire, the area was invaded by the Germanic barbarians, the Visigoths (480 AD), then the Ostgoths and finally the Franks (6th century). In the 7th century, Provence was invaded by Berber pirates who sailed here from North Africa, later part of its territory came under the influence of the Umayyad Caliphate.
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At the end of the 7th century Provence was formally subject to the Frankish kings, from 742 to 814 it was part of Charlemagne’s empire. As a result of the Treaty of Verdun, which divided the empire into three parts in 843, Provence found itself in the heart of the Kingdom of Burgundy, whose rulers, however, had little interest in these lands, entrusting their management to local liege lords, the counts of Arles and Avignon.
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From the late twelfth century, French kings, seeking to consolidate their influence in the southern regions, began to use political and marriage alliances for this purpose. As a result of one of these, power in Provence passed into the hands of a royal scion, the Count of Anjou. In the 15th century, after the happy years of King René the Good (15th century), who also belonged to the House of Anjou, the Count of Provence became the French king himself. By the way, René the Good is known as the last troubadour king. At his court in Aix-en-Provence prospered poets, musicians, artists, he himself was considered one of the most generous patrons of the arts.
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In the 19th century, Provence entered a period of prosperity. The ports of Marseille and Toulon connected it to France’s colonies in North Africa and to the Middle East. In the second half of the 19th century, Napoleon III annexed Nice, which had been part of the Duchy of Savoy since 1338, to France, returning the region to its former integrity. At this time the railroad connected Marseille with Paris, then from the capital went trains to Nice and Toulon. The coastal towns of Nice, Antibes, and Yer became prestigious resorts, a favorite vacation spot for the European aristocracy.
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The construction of new highways, particularly the Paris-Marseille highway, which opened in 1970, launched mass tourism in the region. In 1981, these cities were also connected by the VGA rail network, where high-speed trains take passengers from the French capital to Marseille in just over 3 hours.
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Geography
The historic Provence region comprises the different landscape zones of southern France. It is bounded to the north and east by the Alps, to the west by the Rhone River, and to the south by the warm waters of the Mediterranean Sea. Accordingly, the topography of this multifaceted region is very diverse. The backdrop for it are wind-blown high mountain plateaus, hills, on the slopes of which green olive trees and grapes grow, valleys where the fields are dotted with myriads of flowers, spicy herbs, marshy lagoons in the delta of the Rhone, the sea and the sun, illuminating the coastal towns with amazing light.
.If you try to describe Provence in terms of modern administrative division, it turns out that it “split” into areas that are part of the departments of the Upper Alps, the Alps of Upper Provence, the Maritime Alps, the Bouches-du-Rhône (mouth of the Rhone), Var, Vaucluse. These departments form the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. A kind of geographical curiosity: a very tiny corner of historical Provence turned out to be in the department of Drome, which is part of the neighboring region. This area is called Provence Drome.
.Provence’s largest cities are Aix-en-Provence, its historic capital, and Marseille, the main city of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region.
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Provence climate
Provence’s climate reflects the diversity of its geography. For example, the coastal areas have a much milder climate than the continental areas. The difference between the average minimum temperatures on the coast and in the northern part of Provence exceeds 7 °С. If located near the sea cities of Marseille and Toulon precipitation falls 80 days a year, then, for example, to the north, in the city of Carpentras (department of Vaucluse), the number of rainy days – 100.
.In the alpine foothills and high mountain ranges, the climate is much harsher. Winters bring frequent snowfalls and long periods of low temperatures – on average from -15 °C to -12 °C. Climatic conditions in different mountainous areas depend on the altitude at which they are located and on the wind direction. In summer in mountainous areas it can be very hot during the day, by the evening it becomes noticeably colder.
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A striking feature of the weather conditions in Provence, or rather the region located in the Rhone Valley, is the famous mistral, the wind blowing here at speeds ranging from 55 km/hour to 200 km/hour. In Marseille, for example, it dominates on average one day out of three. Very strong winds can be in any season, but in winter, when it carries masses of cold air at great speed, the cold at times becomes almost polar.
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The mistral, however, has the great virtue of dispersing the clouds. It is to it that Provence owes its fame as the sunniest corner of France. The high season in Provence is the summer months. It is especially pleasant to have a rest here in June, when the day temperature does not exceed +30 °С. July and August are hot months, thermometer columns often record the temperature exceeding +35 °С. The water near the coast warms up to +23…+25 ° C.
.Provence is good in spring and early fall – at this time it is warm and sunny. Rains begin in November. In winter in the valley and on the coast the temperature fluctuates within +8 … +12 °С, you should not expect snow here.
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Culture
Like other southern parts of the country, Provence has long maintained its independence from the French crown. It had its own Provençal language, formed on the basis of numerous Occitan dialects, in which troubadours composed medieval ballads. After joining France in the XV century Provençal language began to be replaced by French. But in the XIX century came its new flowering in literature, when Frederic Mistral, poet and lexicographer, a fighter for the revival of the cultural identity of Provence, as well as other Provençal poets founded the organization Felibrige. The organization, which contributed to the revival of the Provençal language, still exists today.
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The writers who succeeded Mistral began to use Provençal, weaving it into French. Among them are Daudet, Giono, Pagnol, and Jean Écart.
‘ Aix-en-Provence. Vincent van Gogh was not Provençal, but it was here that he discovered the vivid colors and special light he had been searching for so long. Settling in Arles in 1888, he created a series of paintings over the course of two years, depicting the yellow wheat fields of Provence, its olive groves, poppy-filled valleys, vineyards, sunshine, mountains, the embankments of the Rhone, and the necropolis of Aliscamp in Arles..The extraordinary light and dazzling colors of Provence inspired other artists. One can recall Picasso’s nymphs and sea urchins, the balconies of Nice painted by Matisse, the triangles of snow-white sails in the blue sea by Raoul Dufy.
It is impossible to imagine the colors of Provence.
It is impossible to imagine Provence without Carnival, which takes place on the last day before Lent, and in the first days of Easter in the city of Arles there is a bullfight, where the best bullfighters of Spain and France come together. This action can also be seen in the cities of Nîmes and Orange. Noble animals are not killed in Provence. Instead, 10 matadors dressed in white try to tear the red ribbon off the bull’s horns, which requires even more art and thrills the spectators. The spectacular fights are held in Roman amphitheaters, arenas where gladiators fought among themselves 2,000 years ago.
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As for the Provençals themselves, they are, like all Southerners, characterized by simplicity and hospitality. The spirit of independence lives in them, and at the same time they are characterized by an indestructible attachment to everything that surrounds them. Preferring in life simple and understandable things – a midday nap, abundant food, good wine, idle conversation, they are quite indifferent to the pleasures that can be found in large cities. As a matter of fact, the Provençals are individualists, but without the distinctive traits peculiar to them it is impossible to form a general idea of the French character.
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Bouches-du-Rhône (Mouth of the Rhône)
Bouches-du-Rhône was one of the first departments in the country and its formation dates back to the French Revolution. It is home to the region’s main city, Marseille, as well as the ancient capital of Provence, Aix-en-Provence.
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The former capital city with a glorious past is stunningly beautiful and aristocratic. Aix-en-Provence is called the city of arts, festivals, and fountains. One of the most beautiful is the “Four Dolphins” fountain.
>The main and busiest walking street of Aix-en-Provence is Boulevard Mirabeau, stretching from the famous Rotonde fountain to Place Forben. The boulevard, bordered by plane trees, is decorated with the most beautiful buildings of XVII-XVIII centuries. Among the many cafes and restaurants crowding the Boulevard Mirabeau, Deux Garsons, located in a building of the XVIII century, stands out. It was a favorite of Paul Cézanne, Emile Zola, Ernest Hemingway. Nearby, on rue Cardinal, you will see the beautiful church of St. John of Malta. Here are the tombs of the Counts of Provence, in the side aisles are exhibited paintings by artists of the XVII century.
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Other famous landmarks in Aix-en-Provence include the town hall building, the Cathedral of St. Savior (Aix Cathedral). There are many interesting museums in the city, and it is definitely worth visiting Cézanne’s studio, located on the street that bears his name (house No. 9).
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Dominating Aix-en-Provence, Mount Saint-Victoire is depicted by Cézanne in more than 60 paintings. Surprisingly triangular when viewed from the picturesque village of Le Tolone, the mountain is an exposed fold of white limestone strata. The magic of Mount Saint-Victoire has attracted other artists, including Picasso, himself buried in its shadow, in the Château de Vauvenargues.
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One of the oldest cities in Provence, Arles, has preserved many monuments of the Roman period: arenas turned into fortresses during the early Middle Ages, an ancient theater, built on the model and likeness of the ancient Greek temples, also from time to time changed its original purpose. Within its walls is held Arles Festival (June-July), international congresses of photographers.
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In Arles it is worth seeing the monastery and church of St. Trophimus, as well as Aliskamp – one of the most beautiful Christian necropolises.
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From Arles begins the Camargue, a wild land of lagoons, marshes, rivers, salt marshes, fields and colorful shepherds who on white horses guard herds of black bulls. In summer, thousands of flamingos gather in the lagoons, the color of the birds’ plumage makes the water appear pink. To this day, the best way to travel through the Camargue is in the saddle. Such excursions are very popular here.
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18 km northwest of Aix-en-Provence is the commune of La Barbin. This place is famous for its castle as well as its zoo. The local castle was first mentioned in 1069. In the 15th century, it became the property of King René, but was later sold by him to the famous Forbin family in Provence. The French garden next to the chateau was designed by the famous landscape architect André Lenôtre.
.Near the castle, on a hill, on the territory of 30 hectares is a zoo, where about 400 animals live. Among them are giraffes, elephants, lions, panthers, tigers, cheetahs, pumas and ostriches. In the former castle sheepfolds and stables there are aviaries for birds, a vivarium and an aquarium.
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The city of Le Baux-de-Provence has many monuments of the distant past, some of them in ruins. One should see the Royal House, where kings once stayed. This 15th century building now houses a tourist information office. See the old town hall, the church of St. Vincent (XII-XV centuries.), the chapel of the White Penitents (XVII century.), the interior of which is decorated with frescoes by Yves Braer – a famous artist of the twentieth century.
.The castle and tower have extensive dungeons. These are the remains of a powerful medieval fortress complex, built in the XIII century on the site of defensive structures of the X century. The castle is famous for the fact that within its walls during the Middle Ages the first gallant “Love Courts” (or “Love Courses”) were held – secular conversations devoted to issues of love, where, among other things, they considered disputes between lovers, whose names were kept secret.
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In the south of the department of Bouches-du-Rhône is the town of Cassis. It is situated on a seaside “patch” surrounded by cliffs. This corner of Provence is favored by mountaineers, here is also a popular seaside resort. Among the attractions is the highest sea cliff in Europe Canaille (416 meters above sea level). The views from its summit are breathtaking.
.Cassis is surrounded by cedar forests, terraced vineyards, ochre and white cliffs. These are home to Provence’s most famous natural landmark, the calanques, the Provençal fjords, which are a double array of coastal cliffs. They stretch all the way to Marseille along the Marseille-Cassis national highway and are separated by a valley.
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Once in Marseille, start your exploration in the old port. This is where the Greeks, natives of Phokida, settled 600 years before Christ. From the port stretches the most famous street of Marseille – La Canbrière. At its beginning you will see the magnificent building of the Palais de la Bourse, built in 1852 and decorated with sculptural allegories glorifying commerce. La Canbière crosses the 17th-century Carriage Yard and approaches the neo-Gothic St. Vincent Church. Beyond the porch, shady alleys adorned with fountains and lined with fine mansions begin. Further along the axis of the boulevard Lonshan, there is a magnificent building which houses the museums of fine arts and natural history.
.A striking symbol of the city is the Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde, built in 1852. Above the highly original ensemble of the entire cathedral rises a huge statue of the Virgin and Child. The interior decoration abounds with mosaics in the Byzantine style. Every part of the building, every architectural element stands out in rich color.
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4 km off the coast of Marseille is the Friulian archipelago, which includes the rock island of If with its famous castle of the same name. On an islet of 3 hectares, stands a fort of the XVI century, supplemented by a defensive belt on a rock base directly at the water’s edge. In the center is a square building with three cylindrical towers adapted to house artillery batteries. For more than two centuries the castle was used to hold especially dangerous criminals, in the XIX century the fortress was turned into a museum.
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Heading from Marseille to the north of Provence, you’ll find yourself in Salon-de-Provence, a town built over 2,000 years ago. There are several interesting museums here, including the Ampere Castle Museum (10th-16th centuries). Built on an impregnable rock, it is one of the largest feudal castles in Provence and the oldest of them all. For a long time it was the favorite residence of the Archbishops of Arles. It was visited by such prominent personalities as Francis I, Catherine de Medici, Louis IV, Cardinal Mazarini. Since 1967, it has been home to a museum of the history of the region, displaying one of the world’s best collections on military history. The castle often hosts theatrical performances and festivals.
Even further north, almost at the very border with the department of Vaucluse is a town that has become famous not only for Alfonse Daudet’s famous work “Tartarin of Tarascon”, but also for the fact that it is home to many cultural and historical attractions. Interesting, in particular, are the Cordeliers Monastery on the Place Frederic Mistral and, of course, the well-preserved Tarascon Castle (XV century), which belonged to the Counts of Provence. Opposite the castle is the Gothic royal cathedral of St. Martha, which is one of the most beautiful religious buildings in Provence.
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Vaucluse
The name of the department where the northern parts of Provence are located translates as “closed valley”. Its administrative center is Avignon, a city of turbulent history, famous museums, fine taste and culture. Here in 1309, at the will of Philip IV the Beautiful, the papal throne was transferred from Rome. The Papal Palace, magnificent both inside and out, with its imposing bastions, huge halls, the silence of humming galleries, is still the most interesting attraction of Provence.
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The Place d’Orlage (clock) by the palace, called the heart of the city, is a great place to pass the time in one of the many cafes or restaurants. In July, Orlozh Square, like many others in the city, becomes one of the stages of Europe’s oldest theater festival. The main action of the festival takes place in the courtyard of the Pontifical Palace.
Pamukkale
Atafu Atoll
