Mangyshlak Peninsula

Mangyshlak is a large peninsula belonging to Kazakhstan, jutting into the Caspian Sea in the southwest of the republic. The Mangystau Oblast extends here. The administrative center of the region is the port city of Aktau, built on the eastern coast of the Caspian Sea. Another large industrial city, Zhanaozen, is located in the semi-desert steppe. In recent decades, modern beach resorts, health complexes, entertainment centers have grown on the coast of the peninsula, and the Caspian seaside of Kazakhstan has become a popular vacation spot. Tourists are also attracted by the unusual landscapes of weathered ancient mountains, nature reserves and numerous ancient monuments preserved in the expanses of Mangyshlak.

.

Video: Mangyshlak

Contents

Highlights

Most of Mangyshlak is a sparsely populated and waterless saline semi-desert with ridges of low mountains. Rich deposits of ores, oil and gas have been discovered in the depths of Mangyshlak. Mining and chemical industry is developed here, more than 500 enterprises operate here. Hotels and restaurants, theaters and museums, landscaped beaches and resort entertainment are concentrated in the city of Aktau, the main industrial and tourist center of the peninsula.

.

On the beaches of the Caspian Sea, the season lasts 5-6 months. On the southwestern coast of Mangyshlak, close to the regional center, resort complexes have been built – there nature has created all the conditions for surfing, diving, sailing. Beach resorts are developing in other coastal regions of the peninsula.

.

On the vast plateau of Mangistau, inquisitive tourists will find natural reserves, archaeological sites, ancient underground temples, cave mosques and ancient necropolises. The way to them lies through deserted expanses with wonderful hilly landscapes. To see the numerous natural and man-made sights of Mangyshlak from Aktau are organized thematic bus tours, jeep safaris, horseback riding.

.

History of Mangyshlak

Fifty million years ago, Mangyshlak was covered by the waters of the ancient Tethys Ocean. On the peninsula and on the Ustyurt Plateau, paleontologists often find the fossilized remains of creatures that lived in its waters – huge clam shells, teeth of giant sharks, bones of prehistoric fish and turtles.

.

In the Paleolithic era, primitive hunters lived in the karst caves of the peninsula. Traces of their stay are recorded in numerous archaeological sites found in Mangyshlak. Neolithic settlement with numerous artifacts scientists have identified on Kulaly Island of the Seal Archipelago, off the western shores of Mangystau.

.

For two millennia, the northwestern branch of the Great Silk Road ran through the Ustyurt Plateau and Mangyshlak. Camel lines loaded with goods from Khorezm and Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva stopped in caravanserais of busy trading towns and fortresses. On the shores of the peninsula, goods were reloaded onto ships bound for Transcaucasia and the mouth of the great river Itil (Volga).

.

The peninsula was named after the fortress of Mangistau, mentioned in chronicles of the X-XII centuries. Where it was located, historians have not yet found out. The developed civilization that existed here was destroyed by the hordes of nomadic Türks who poured from east to west during the Great Migration of Peoples in the IV-VII centuries. The decayed cities were finally destroyed by the Mongol invasion in the XIII century and were never rebuilt. Only ruins, covered with sands, have reached us. For a long time Mangyshlak turned into a silent and deserted desert, where tribes of foreign cattle breeders roamed.

.

Preachers of the Prophet Muhammad’s teachings appeared in Mangyshlak as early as the 7th century. Muslim righteous people retreated to inaccessible mountain caves, built mosques and mausoleums of their predecessors, and eventually found eternal rest in the desert expanses of Mangystau. For many centuries a real pantheon of Islamic saints, outstanding scientists, philosophers, theologians and healers was formed here. Their deeds are narrated by tales-dastans. Thousands of pilgrims come to worship the shrines.

.

In the XV century several tribes of Kazakhs headed by a leader named Adai-ata moved to Mangyshlak. Since that time the locals have been called Adaians or Adaevans. From 1719 to 1727, the hydrographic Caspian expedition led by Vice-Admiral of the Russian Navy Fyodor Soimonov explored the shores of the sea. Soon the Imperial Academy of Sciences published the Admiral’s work – a detailed “Atlas of the Caspian Sea”, and the sailors received a detailed lotiya – a guide for navigators of ships. Soon Mangyshlak was incorporated into the Russian Empire. There was a Cossack annexation here, and then – Mangyshlak district. After the revolution of 1917, this region was successively included in a number of administrative formations until it became a separate oblast within the Kazakh SSR.

.

In the early 2000s, investors from the tourism sector came to the seashore of Mangistau. In a fairly short time, beach resorts, recreational complexes were built here, and a developed infrastructure was created, attracting tens of thousands of travelers.

.

Geography

The vast Mangistau region is spread over 165,642 km², which would freely accommodate some European countries, such as Austria and the Czech Republic combined. The region borders with Turkmenistan in the south and Uzbekistan in the east.

.

The capital of Mangyshlak is the young city of Aktau, built on the western coast of the peninsula. There is a large commercial seaport, there is a harbor for passenger ferries, and 20 km from the city is an international airport. From Moscow it takes about two and a half hours to fly here (1655 km), by road the shortest distance is 2675 km. To Nur-Sultan, the capital of Kazakhstan, from Aktau is 1732 km in a straight line, and on the highway around the mountains – 3188 km.

.

Travelers are amazed by the fantastic desert landscapes of Mangyshlak, filled with the smell of hot sand and bitter aroma of wormwood. Looking over the steppe from some elevation, you will not notice any traces of the presence of civilization of the XXI century. Only a flock of sheep grazing near a white yurt, a herd of horses in the distance, and a lone SUV dusting along the dirt road remind of the presence of people here. As a thousand years ago, eagles soar in the azure sky, looking for prey, gophers hide in the stiff grass, and on the warm stones, like statuettes, frozen brown lizards.

.

The coastline of the peninsula is riddled with bays and coves. The northern part of Mangyshlak is covered with lifeless solonchaks overlooking the Caspian lowlands. In the south the ridges of low mountains of Mangystau are grouped together. Here the relief of the hilly plateau of the same name is dotted with precipitous canyons washed out by streams of long dried up rivers. Today the peninsula is deprived of fresh water reservoirs. But in the depths of the land scorched by the steppe sun, aquifers have been preserved. They come to the surface in the form of brackish mineral springs, wash out in soft limestone labyrinths of caves, going into the depths for hundreds of meters. Over time, the vaults of the dungeons thin out and collapse into the abyss, forming holes in the stony surface. Rains and winds have sculpted the rocky remains into strange sculptures resembling the figures of petrified fairy-tale creatures. Some islands of rock nature has given the shape of giant pyramids, tents or castle towers. The highest elevation of the peninsula is the mountain Otpan-tau (532 m), which is sacred to Kazakhs.

.

There is a curious natural attraction – the Karagiye Basin 40 km southeast of Aktau. It was once part of the Caspian Sea gulf. Its flat bottom covered with sand and solonchaks lies 132 meters below the level of the world ocean. In the depression there is a drying up solonchak lake Batyr. This geological depression is 85 km long and 10 to 25 km wide. Black wormwood prevails here. Locals say that in early summer one can collect a basket of mushrooms here, mushrooms are not found in other places of the peninsula. Mouflon, foxes and hares live in Karagi. On the precipitous slopes of the northeastern end of the lowland in several caves stands of primitive tribes were found. The R-113 highway leading from Aktau to the industrial city of Zhanaozen passes through the depression.

.

On the continent, the Mangyshlak Peninsula borders the Ustyurt Plateau. There is a reserve with characteristic steppe flora and fauna, which has become home to rare animals: lynxes, Ustyurt mouflons, Persian gazelles, wild barkhan cats. Among the 260 species of feathered inhabitants are flamingos, hawks, owls, peregrine falcons, golden eagles.

.

Climate

The Mangyshlak Peninsula has a desert continental climate with hot, dry summers and moderately cold winters. In January it is usually -9…-4 °С, in summer +25…+30 °С. Extreme heat was observed, when daytime air temperature reached +45 °С, and at night did not fall below +38 °С, and stones on the surface of the plateau heated up to +70 °С. In summer there are no rains. Dust storms occur here, at this time the air is filled with fine sand brought by the stormy eastern wind from the Ustyurt plateau.

.

The sea coast of Mangyshlak is an endless succession of sandy and rocky beaches. The bathing season lasts six months – from May to the second half of September, the average temperature of water in the Caspian Sea is +21…+22 ° C, in July-August – up to +24 ° C.

.

Sights of Mangyshlak

The Mangyshlak Peninsula is dotted with archeological, historical and architectural monuments erected by steppe peoples. It is convenient to explore the numerous sights, separated by hefty spaces, with a bus tour or by car. You will see ancient rock paintings, medieval mausoleums, tombstones of necropolises, cave mosques. The structures are covered with skillful carvings, frescoes, Arabic and Persian script.

.

A memorial was built on the top of the mountain Otpan-tau, which rises half a kilometer above the steppe expanse. Thus immortalized the leader of the Adaevs – the legendary warrior Adai-ata and his brave sons. A panoramic view for dozens of kilometers opens from here. In the old days, there was a watch post on the mountain to warn the locals of approaching enemies. Now the mausoleum is guarded by a statue of a totem wolf. A dirt road, accessible for cars, leads to the top. By car from Aktau you need to go to the northeast, the road will take about an hour and a half.

.

The underground mosque in Oglandy tract, where Sufi and healer Beket-ata is buried, is deeply revered in Kazakhstan. A well-maintained staircase leads to the entrance, and stone retaining walls with balustraded terraces are arranged on the sides. In the rooms cut out in the rock, the builders managed to create a unique acoustic effect: in any corner of the mosque is well heard every word of the preacher reading prayers.

.

In the tract of Tarysh, which is 67 km from the regional center, an amazing sight awaits travelers. Thousands of spherical limestone nodules up to 3 meters in diameter are scattered along the valley. In the split stones one can see perfectly round nuclei surrounded by layers of rocks. Geologists cannot explain what natural processes led to the formation of these stone spheres, how they appeared here, because in Mangyshlak such mysterious spheres are not found anywhere else.

.

Near the tract rise mountains Ayrakty-Shomanai. From afar, the rocky spurs resemble a fairy-tale city built by giants with fortress walls, palaces, colonnades, impregnable towers topped with thin spires. The area is known as the Valley of Castles. A path leads to the flat top of a nearby hill. There’s a viewing platform where you’ll find the best angle for photography. Take a closer look at the scree on the slopes. Among the stones you can find beautiful pieces of jasper, carnelians, quartz crystals.

.

Bizarre rocks are famous and picturesque canyon Jemsen-say. And in the winding Samal Gorge, which cuts through the western slopes of the range, mountain spring falls down waterfalls on the ledges of rocks. At the bottom of the gorge lurks one of the few green corners of Mangistau with thickets of bushes and reeds. Local healers collect medicinal herbs here.

.

The oasis of Akmysh is located in the area of Mount Sherkala, lonely in the stony desert. Here flows a strange stream without source and mouth. The stream breaks to the surface directly from a sand dune and disappears into the sand after 500 meters. Underground waters give life to a whole grove of trees. Here you can see the ruins of the ancient city cleared by archaeologists. In the X-XVI centuries under the protection of its walls stopped trade caravans traveling along the Silk Road.

.

On the southern coast of Mangyshlak is the town of Fort Shevchenko, named in honor of the exiled Ukrainian poet, sent here as a simple soldier in the middle of the century before last. There is a memorial dedicated to him and an interesting ethnographic museum in the town. In the vicinity of Fort Shevchenko you can see the ruins of architectural complex of XVI-XVIII centuries. In 30 km away there are mausoleums of ancient necropolis Beisenbai.

.

Entertainment

Entertainment centers await tourists in the city of Aktau. There are many restaurants and cafes, theaters and museums are open, nightclubs operate.

From August 1, the game hunting season opens in the Mangistau region. At this time here you can get wild boar, hare, hunt foxes and wolves. Gamekeepers of the historical and cultural society “Otpan” annually organize spectacular hunting with tame golden eagles and hound dogs. Competitions are held in the vicinity of the sacred mountain Otpan-tau, 15 kilometers east of the village of Zhyngyldy. Hundreds of locals and tourists come to watch the competitions. Rest rooms and tasty treats await guests in specially installed yurts.

.

In summer at the beach resorts of Mangyshlak popular cruises along the picturesque coast on boats, windsurfing, sea fishing, underwater hunting.

.

Beaches

Sea resorts are built in the vicinity of Aktau. The bottom of the coast is stony, beaches are covered with pebbles, but there are also sandy areas. On most beaches the entrance is open to all comers. For parking you have to pay 1145 tenge (3 $), for renting an umbrella and a sunbed – from 760 to 1900 tenge. Rent of catamarans (1000 tenge/hour), boat trips on boats and yachts (5000-15000 tenge) are offered. Everywhere there are rental shops “bananas”, sports equipment.

.

Manila Beach is open from 09:00 to 23:00. Here are equipped with toilets (50 tenge), showers (100 tenge), changing rooms, there is a cafe, bath, medical center, luggage room. You can rent a tent with a barbecue, table and chairs (1500 tenge/hour). Water slides work in summer.

.

From 10:00 to 24:00 vacationers take the beach Nur Plaza. Entrance is paid – 500 tenge. The price includes the use of a sun lounger and umbrella, visit the shower and toilet. Cheaper entrance to the beach Dostar – 200 tenge.

.

Behind the beach Manila, at the sanatorium “Shagala”, equipped with a new beach Marrakesh. Entrance here is gratuitous, parking is free. There is a café with light snacks and a restaurant housed in a large tent.

.

In 210 km south of Aktau, on the shores of the shallow Kenderli Bay, there is a resort of the same name, where sanatoriums and campgrounds are built. The beaches here are sandy, the entrance to the sea is gentle. On the coast are equipped with tennis courts, volleyball courts, cafes and restaurants, operating cinemas, bowling clubs and other entertainment.

.

Well-appointed sandy beaches in the Blue Bay, located northwest of Aktau, are gaining popularity. Romantics will easily find deserted corners by the sea, where you can put a tent and barbecue.

.

Shopping

Shopping centers with world brands beckon with shining shop windows in Aktau. Souvenir stores are also located here. Traditional tourist purchases are skullcaps, stylized silver women’s jewelry, leather flasks with a set of metal cups, soft felt house shoes, warm camel wool outerwear. Kazakh carpets, tea sets with bowls, products made of ornamental stones, which are rich in the mountains of Mangyshlak, are good.

.

For tasty gifts, choose Kazakh delicacies, such as kazy, a raw-dried sausage made of horse meat, and kurt, a hard cheese. Shubat, an original and extremely healthy carbonated drink made from camel’s milk, is sold in stores. Shubat can be bought in the form of tablets and powder mixtures, they are dissolved in carbonated water. The markets offer sweets – halva, nuts in honey, marshmallow, rahat-lukum.

.

Local cuisine

Restaurants and cafes with Kazakh and European cuisine await tourists in Aktau, Fort-Shevchenko, Zhanaozen. In the working villages, establishments are much more modest, but the prices for food there are very democratic.

.

Traveling around Mangyshlak, take the opportunity to taste simple and hearty Kazakh dishes in roadside taverns and home cafes in small remote villages. Here you will be served traditional beshbarmak made of boiled lamb with square noodles and onions stewed in fat. The dish is accompanied by a separate bowl with meat broth flavored with herbs. Try another authentic nomadic dish – leg of lamb baked on a spit over hearth coals. Instead of the usual slices of bread, here you eat puffy flatbread-baursaks fried in boiling oil. The result is soft pastry with a crispy crust. Dinner is drunk with koumiss.

.

Seaside Mangyshlak is famous for wonderful fish dishes. Here they cook delicious fried mullet and amazing kebabs from Caspian sturgeon. It is forbidden to catch sturgeons in the sea, so the fish is raised on seaside farms in fenced-off ponds. The best snack in the region is salted sturgeon caviar.

.

Where to stay

On the Mangyshlak Peninsula, hotels are mainly concentrated in Aktau. In the city you can stay in inexpensive hostels and mini hotels for 7000-9000 tenge per day. Wealthy and demanding tourists will find here luxury hotels of international chains Holiday Inn and Renaissance Hotels. The cost of accommodation in these five-star hotels is from 24,100 to 37,600 tenge.

.

On the sea coast of the peninsula tourists are accommodated in modern hotel buildings, individual cottages, sanatoriums, on campgrounds with well-developed infrastructure. Sanatoriums offer health-improving procedures, therapeutic massage, drinking healing mineral waters. At the service of resort guests – walks on the sea, restaurants, fitness centers, saunas, pools, billiard bars.

.

The resort complex Stigl is located 18 km from Aktau. Hotel accommodation near the beach costs from 24,000 tenge, daily rental of a cottage – from 13,000 tenge. Approximately the same prices are found in other resorts of Mangyshlak.

.

Transportation

Buses run from Aktau to resort villages. Cab services are available. For traveling around Mangyshlak it is convenient to use car rental services. The cost of renting a Toyota Yaris small car starts from 10,000 tenge per day. Taking into account the Mangyshlak off-road, it is better to splurge on a hardy 4×4 jeep.

.

It is possible to rent a private car with a local driver who knows well the ways to the sights of Mangystau. The chauffeur will also fulfill the duties of a guide. Ads for such services are posted all over the city. Prices are negotiable.

.

How to get there

There is an international airport 25 km north of Aktau. Airliners from Moscow, Krasnodar, Mineralnye Vody, Astrakhan, Makhachkala, Rostov-on-Don regularly fly here. Domestic flights connect the airport with the capital of Kazakhstan and other cities of the country. For more information, visit Aviasales.ru.

.

From the airport to the city run buses route number 11. A cab ride will cost within 2000 tenge.

.

There is no railway station in Aktau, but 16 km from the city, in the village of Mangystau, there is a railway station “Mangyshlak”. Passenger trains from other regions of Kazakhstan run there. From Russia, only one train No. 625X “Astrakhan – Mangyshlak” arrives at this station. The train moves very slowly, making many stops. Travel time is 34 hours. Check the schedule on the portal Tutu.ru.

.

From Aktau to the station runs bus number 105, the ticket costs 80 tenge. A cab ride will cost 300 tenge.

.