Kizhi Museum-Reserve

Kizhi is one of the 1369 islands in the northeastern part of Lake Onega, which is a visiting card of Karelia. Located 68 kilometers from Petrozavodsk, it is among the most important cultural attractions in Russia. The places here are amazingly beautiful, a labyrinth of hundreds of picturesque islands and bays harmoniously woven into a unique natural landscape. Rocks with pine trees growing on them, bizarre in its meandering lines of the coast, playing with colors of the most diverse vegetation meadows – all this makes Kizhi really beautiful and unique place.

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Video: Kizhi Island

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Highlights

Kizhi Island, which is about 5.5 km long and 1.4 km wide, is an open-air museum – one of the largest and most famous museum-reserves in the country, as well as a natural and historical-cultural complex. Here are presented samples of peasant culture of the Russian North, especially valuable from the point of view of the general cultural heritage of the peoples of Russia. Household utensils, icons created in Russian, Karelian and Vepsian villages, not to mention various buildings recognized later as architectural monuments, are collected on this small piece of land. The architectural appearance of Kizhi is made up of buildings created from natural materials: pine, spruce, aspen. Moreover, all of them, including churches and log houses, are built in the traditional style of Russia – without a single nail.

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The uniqueness of the historical and architectural complex located in Kizhi is also in the fact that such a large number of the brightest examples of Russian wooden architecture in the northern regions of our country can not be found anywhere else. Tens of thousands of tourists from all over the world come to Kizhi to see this beauty and admire the skill of its creators. To be more precise, more than 160 thousand people visit the museum-reserve every year. Of particular interest is its main dominant feature – the Kizhi pogost of the XVIII century, consisting of several wooden churches. Back in the 90’s of the last century it was included in the UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage List.

The museum complex “Kizhi” is a modern cultural center, excursion service in it is conducted, in addition to Russian, in seven languages. And we have no doubt that acquaintance with these places will leave no one indifferent and will be remembered for a lifetime.

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History of Kizhi

The development of these northern lands began in the IX-XI centuries by the Slavs-Novgorodians, who, in fact, are the ancestors of modern Kizhi. In those distant times these places were settled by Baltic-Finnish tribes. The names of the villages of Konda, Kurgenitsy, Lahta, Korba and others, located near Kizhi, are a “living” reminder of the once ancient Karelian settlements.

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For many centuries in succession on the lands of modern Karelia there was a confluence of Slavic and Finnic cultures. In this connection, the appearance of the architectural ensemble of the Kizhi pogost in Zaonezhye can hardly be called an accident: there is no doubt that it was predetermined by the high spiritual potential of these two cultures. Musicologists who have studied Russian bylinas of those times find in them the so-called Vappan melostroph – a special tune that cannot be confused with any other. And this also confirms how deeply two seemingly different linguistic cultures have mutually penetrated each other.

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Another feature of Kizhi’s historical past is paganism. Ancient buildings in the area and discovered archaeological artifacts show that pagan celebrations and rituals were held here. By the way, the name of the island in translation from the local dialect means “games”, which may also indicate pre-Christian traditions of its population. The second version of the origin of the island’s name comes from the Karelian word “kiigi”, which translates as “water moss”. This plant is indeed found in the central part of the island, in the bog, and in the past peasants used it to insulate log buildings.

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The influence of Novgorod, of which the island was a part in the XI-XV centuries, squeezed out pagan traditions and led to the Christianization of the northern region. And, interestingly, not only small chapels, but also churches were erected on the sites where there were formerly ancient kapisches – that is, places in pagan temples, on which they installed statues (kapi) representing the gods.

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The lands around Kizhi were owned by eight major Novgorod boyars, including the notorious Marfa Boretskaya. With the strengthening of the Moscow state, the island, as well as all Novgorod possessions, in 1478 became part of it. On this occasion a description of the new lands was made, which was entered into the so-called “Piszovy books”. However, the very first written mention of the “pogost Spassky in Kizhi” was found only in 1563.

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From another “Scrip Book”, dated 1582, we learn that at that time there were as many as 12 villages on the island of Kizhi. Its inhabitants, in addition to fishing, were engaged in farming. The same source mentions early Kizhi churches, such as the Protection of the Holy Virgin, the Transfiguration of the Savior and some others, but unfortunately they have not survived to this day.

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In the XVII century, with the light hand of the famous Novgorod businessman Semyon Gavrilov, industrial development of the island began. In 1696 he opened in Kizhi a metallurgical plant for smelting copper ore. Soon the industrialist built two more factories. But the local peasants were extremely hostile to such development of their territories. They could not accept the fact that the lands, including forest lands, were given for the development of ore mining sites. Nor could they like the fact that they were forced to work at Gavrilov’s factories. The common people resisted as much as they could – even armed protests. However, they were brutally suppressed, and as punishment some rebels were sentenced to hard labor, others were sentenced to physical punishment, and others were given to recruits.

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Other events also developed in the same century. Thus, a kind of administrative reform was carried out: the pogosts as territorial units were abolished, and from the lands adjacent to the island formed Kizhskaya volost, which was included in the Petrozavodsk district of Olonets province. To top it all off, at the end of the XVII century the churches of Kizhi pogost burned down, and thank God it was without malicious intent: the cause was a lightning strike during a strong thunderstorm. In place of the former churches were subsequently erected new, modern churches, and by the beginning of the XVIII century on the territory of the pogost was already twelve churches with their own parishes.

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The good fame of the ancient monuments, about their unique beauty over time spread throughout Russia. To see with their own eyes these wonders of wooden architecture, many people came to Kizhi, although, of course, such a concept as tourism did not yet exist. At the beginning of the last century, even many artists and architects visited the island. Among them were Ivan Bilibin, Mikhail Krasovsky, Igor Grabar. A painting by one of them, Jehoshua Shlugleit, called “In the Far North”, was purchased by Emperor Nicholas II himself. Views of the Kizhi Pogost were often depicted on postcards of that time.

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Despite the fact that the architectural masterpieces located on the island have long been recognized as brilliant creations, the Kizhi Pogost did not have the official status of a historical and cultural monument. It received it only after the October Revolution, in 1920. Four years later, by the decree of the Central Executive Committee and Council of People’s Commissars of the RSFSR, all churches were handed over to the use of believers, and on a free basis. This continued until 1936, when the authorities decided to close one of them – the Transfiguration Church – for divine services, motivated by the need to ensure proper security. The Church of the Intercession continued to operate. In 1939 the list of revolutionary, cultural and architectural monuments protected by the state on the territory of the Karelian ASSR was supplemented with Kizhi churches, and they were recommended for inclusion in a similar all-union list.

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The creation of the architectural museum-reserve “Kizhi”, its formation was interrupted by the Great Patriotic War. Finnish troops entered the territory of the island and occupied it. The enemy erected defensive fortifications on the front line along the western coast of the Big Klimetsky Island. However, to be fair, it should be noted that the Finns took measures to protect the historical and architectural monuments located there. True, it was not a concern for the preservation of the Soviet cultural heritage. The enemy command proceeded from the fact that the occupied lands should later become part of the so-called “Greater Finland”, hypothetically including the areas inhabited predominantly by Finnic-speaking peoples. And this was a very large territory, stretching from the Gulf of Bothnia to the Urals.

After the war, work on the creation of an open-air architectural museum on the island immediately resumed. Already in August 1945, the Committee for Architecture of the USSR Council of People’s Commissars, having agreed all the formalities with the government of the Karelian-Finnish SSR (there was in the Soviet Union in 1940-1956 and such, the sixteenth republic), sent a scientific expedition to the region. It was headed by the famous architect A. N. Buinov. The goal of the expedition was to carry out a full-scale survey of the existing architectural monuments in the region. Restoration work in Kizhi churches started already in 1949. Local carpenters who knew the secrets of the old masters of folk architecture were involved. Moscow architect A. V. Opolovnikov led the restoration work.

The early 1950s were marked by the removal of wooden buildings from other regions to Kizhi, namely various houses, baths, mills and other structures. The most famous of the brought structures was the Church of the Resurrection of Lazarus. In addition, the Kizhi pogost became the basis for the formation of a museum of art here, where surviving ancient artifacts have been preserved.

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The official opening of the Kizhi Museum-Reserve as a state historical and cultural institution took place in 1966. Three years later, the museum became a multidisciplinary institution, it was awarded the first category. Along with the expansion of its territory, the number of employees increased, the issues of improving both working conditions and everyday life were solved. 25 employees working at that time were dispersed in such departments as research, Old Russian painting, funds, mass work. In addition, the museum had a scientific library and an administrative and economic department.

The 1970s can be called the golden period in the history of the Kizhi Museum-Reserve. In this decade the work on the formation of the museum exposition was most active. Collecting activities, restoration of monuments, exposition and exhibition work continued, and the Zaonezhsky sector of the museum was created. Thus, in 1971 the Yakovlev’s house was restored, two years later two barns, a bathhouse and a riga were installed at the house, thus completing the formation of the homestead of Pryazhinsky Karel, which became the second exposition sector of the museum. In 1975, the exposition was supplemented with several more outbuildings, and the house of peasant Shchepin was brought and installed.

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And finally, in 1990, the fully formed architectural ensemble of the Kizhi Pogost was included, as we noted at the beginning, in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Three more years later, the Kizhi Museum was included in the state archives of especially valuable objects of cultural heritage of the peoples of Russia. It is the only architectural ensemble in our country created according to the principle of “multi-headedness next to multi-headedness.”

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Sights of Kizhi Island

The most significant expedition site of the Kizhi Museum-Reserve is the architectural ensemble of the Kizhi Pogost. It is it – unique, inimitable in its beauty, embodying the talent and skill of architects of the Russian North – that makes this island in the middle of Lake Onega a really special place. It is not just a monument of wooden architecture, protected by the Russian state and at the global level. It is an opportunity, as if on a time machine, to be in the past in the blink of an eye.

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The architectural complex, located in the southern part of Kizhi Island and the heart of the entire museum-reserve, combines two churches – the twenty-two-domed Transfiguration Church, which is considered summer, and the ten-domed Pokrovskaya Church (it is winter) – and a bell tower. A log fence built around the churches separates the church lands with the cemetery from the nearby peasant fields. Surrounding the historical buildings of the Kizhi pogost is a powerful wall, erected not in the olden days, as many people think, but relatively recently – in the 50s of the last century. This 300-meter long structure usually makes a lasting impression on the visitors of the museum, while organically fitting into the panorama of the main attractions of the island.

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The Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord is a real gem of Kizhi, a colorful wooden structure that impresses with its special splendor even today. One cannot even believe that it was built without the use of nails and other fasteners and exclusively with the help of an axe – no other tools were used. More than that: the named temple was built in 1714, and its height corresponds to a modern 11-storey house (37 meters). How did the masters manage to create such beauty? All those who have seen this church “live”, notice many details that are sometimes unnoticeable even on the highest quality photos, and therefore never cease to be amazed at such a miracle. No less impressive is the four-tier iconostasis: carved work, covered with gilding, it consists of 102 icons dating back to the XVII-XVIII centuries. There is evidence that the Transfiguration Church in Kizhi was built on the model of the Church of the Intercession of the Blessed Virgin Mary, located in the Vologda region.

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Half a century later, the Church of the Intercession appeared on the island of Kizhi, which is also a bright and unique example of Russian wooden architecture. Even the most complex elements in the architecture of the temple were performed only with the help of an axe. The masters cut the base of the religious building from pine, and the domes were made of aspen. The choice of the latter is apparently explained by the fact that its wood is easy to process and does not crack. And what is most surprising and remarkable is that over time the aspen surface becomes mirror-like.

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Another landmark of Kizhi Island that never ceases to amaze is located between the two mentioned churches – it is a 30-meter hipped bell tower of the Kizhi Pogost. It is also called “the voice of Kizhi”, and quite deservedly so. Erected in 1874, it not only harmoniously blended into the architecture of the pogost, but also to this day pleases with the beautiful melody of bell chimes. You can enjoy them, for example, at the festival held here, which is attended by the best bell ringers of our country.

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Above we have already said that at one time on the island from different regions of Karelia were brought unique wooden buildings. One of them is the Church of the Resurrection of Lazarus, delivered here in 1959. Its age has not been established, but the legend says that the construction – very simple, resembling an ordinary hut – was erected by St. Lazarus himself, who founded the Murom monastery and died at the age of 105 in 1391. But the wooden temple is of interest not only for its age, but also for the fact that real miracles happen here – it heals from all sorts of ailments.

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In 1961 on the island of Kizhi from the village of Lelikozero brought a chapel of Michael the Archangel, built in the early 18th century. You can see this unique structure with the original wooden facade in the very center of the museum exposition. Thanks to the efforts of restorers and museum staff, the chapel appears before visitors in its authentic interior. The main attractions of the chapel itself are its two-tiered pull iconostasis and the so-called “sky”, in the center of which is the icon of the Savior Almighty.

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Once in Kizhi, of course, it is worth seeing and the house of the peasant Oshevnev, which is necessarily included in all excursion programs. This spacious building, also wooden, bears the name of a representative of a wealthy peasant family, whose fame came to the end of the XVII century. The house is remarkable because it corresponds to the severe climate of the Zaonezhye region, combining not only living but also household premises. Thanks to this, the peasants could do all the housework without actually leaving the building. It was originally located in the village of Oshevnevo, on the neighboring Bolshoi Klimetsky Island. It was moved to Kizhi in 1951.

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In conclusion, we cannot fail to mention the eight-winged Kizhi windmill, built in 1928 in the style of “stolbovka-mill”. It has an extremely simple appearance: a square-shaped tall log cabin made of thick planks. On the first floor of the mill there is still a special device for grinding and a large box for storing flour (stall).

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Museum funds of Kizhi

Kizhi is one of the largest open-air museums in our country, but its golden fund does not only include architectural monuments. There are over 50 thousand different exhibits in the museum’s collection, including samples of Old Russian and modern paintings, icons, ancient manuscripts and books, written and photographic documents. But this is not all: as a result of numerous scientific expeditions to the villages of Karelia, various household items and unique archaeological finds have been collected over the last half a century. All of them have also found their place in the museum’s collections.

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Not only ordinary tourists who would like to see the local beauty and breathe the clean lake air come to Kizhi Island. Among them there are a lot of historians, cultural figures and ethnographers – both professionals and amateurs. It is very interesting for these creative people to get in touch with living history – to cross the threshold of a real village house, to look at the handicrafts of local craftsmen, to learn more about their tools. Connoisseurs of beauty are especially delighted by unusual samples of dishes and other kitchen utensils of the Russian northerners, Karelians and Veps, their clothes, jewelry and children’s toys.

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To the above we should add that the museum funds include several buildings located off the island, 10-20 km away from it, as well as a number of historical buildings in the Karelian capital Petrozavodsk. All of them are united in the sector “Kizhi Necklace”, which includes several chapels: the Chapel of the Savior of the Unbreakable from the village of Vigovo of the XVII-XVIII centuries (it is located on the top of Naryina Gora), Kirik and Julita (XIX century), the Sign of the Virgin Mary (the second half of the XVIII century), Peter and Paul in the village of Volkostrov (XVIII century). Among them are also chapels in honor of the icon of the Virgin Mary of All Sorrowful Joy in the village of Eglovo (XVIII century) and Varlaam of Khutynsk and Paraskeva Pyatnitsa, which is located on the site of the ancient settlement of Podjelniki (XIX century).

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Beaches in the Kizhi area

Lake Onega is certainly not the Mediterranean Sea or the Indian Ocean, famous for its warm beaches. In this northern and rather cold body of water can afford to swim only very prepared people, and that in a limited period of time – in July and the first half of August. And that’s if there are really sunny days.

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If at the time of your stay in Kizhi weather is favorable to beach rest, do not hurry to undress and jump into the water. The fact is that bathing is forbidden on the island, after all, it is an open-air museum. Some exception to this rule is the area of sparsely populated village Yamka, where in addition to local residents live seasonally working volunteers and museum staff. Bathing is allowed without restrictions on the neighboring islands and peninsulas. At the disposal of beach lovers are long sandy beaches and almost deserted bays that attract with their calm atmosphere and even some peace.

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What to bring as a souvenir

On the island of Kizhi, not far from the pier there is a souvenir store. The assortment here, as they say, is standard: thematic books and calendars, photo albums and guidebooks, mugs and magnets. Especially popular among tourists are various models for assembly. Having bought such paper, wooden or cardboard “constructor”, you can make three-dimensional miniatures of local attractions at home with your own hands. Of simpler options you can look for puzzles, from which you can easily put together the entire Kizhi pogost or, for example, separately Transfiguration Church.

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Memorable “northern” souvenirs are sold not only in the store. Local masters and craftswomen make them right at home, so while exploring the sights of Kizhi you can see with your own eyes how they make dolls, wooden toys, traditional textiles with Zaonezh embroidery. If you like something, you can buy it right away. One more traditional Kizhi souvenir you can get for free, just walking along the shore. It is shungite or “aspid stone”. Pieces of this Precambrian rock, which occupies an intermediate position between graphite and anthracite, can be found in the lake water.

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Those who have enough time, and also the desire to bring home a lot of guests and gifts, it is better to look at the range and prices in Petrozavodsk in advance, before coming to these lands. The fact is that many Karelian souvenirs in the capital of the republic are even much cheaper than in tourist Kizhi.

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Tourists to note

Administratively, the museum-reserve belongs to the Medvezhegorsk district of the Republic of Karelia and the entire Kizhi Island is under its jurisdiction. The institution is open to the public all year round. From May to October inclusive, the museum is open from 8:00 to 20:00, from November to April – from 9:00-10:00 to 16:00-17:00.

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Entrance to the museum is paid, one adult ticket will cost you 500 rubles (if other rates are not stipulated in the pre-purchased tour). Students and pensioners pay, respectively, 200 and 300 rubles. The possibility of free entrance to the island is provided only for children under 16 years old.

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Excursions with transfer to Kizhi are more expensive: 3350 rubles for adults. Children under 12 years old also go for a fee, the cost of such a ticket – 1850 rubles. If you order an audio guide in a foreign language, you will have to pay an additional 500 rubles.

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There is a possibility of ordering an additional excursion program right on the spot. Its duration usually varies from 10 minutes to 3 hours. The price range is corresponding: from 200 to 1000 rubles per person.

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How to get there

There is no direct air service with Kizhami, so first you need to be in Petrozavodsk. Many tourists find it more convenient to get to the capital of Karelia by plane: flights from Moscow are carried out several times a week, aircraft are served by the local airport “Besovets”, located in the village of the same name. Regular rail and bus connections are also superimposed between both cities.

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Upon arrival in Petrozavodsk, passenger ships of the “Russian North” company are at your service, which sends four motor ships to Kizhi every day. An adult ticket will cost 1425 rubles, and that only one way. Children’s tickets cost half as much. On Fridays and Sundays in the evening time through Kizhi Island go so-called “social” motor ships, tickets for which cost only 860 rubles. The flights are carried out by “Rybinsk passenger transportation.”

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Here it should be noted that the schedule of motor ships and in general on their movement are affected by weather conditions. In the off-season, that is, when there is no navigation, communication with Kizhami by water is suspended. During this period you can get to the island by Mi-8 helicopters, departing from Peski airport. The cost of a ticket is about 800 rubles one way.

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