Kajuraho (Khajuraho)

Khajuraho is an ancient village in India known for the erotic sculptures that adorn the local medieval Hindu temples. The sandstone structures are marvels of harmony, but the true beauty and grace lies in the sensuality of their sculptures. A world heritage monument, the temples of Kajuraho are located in the beautiful countryside surrounded by the Vindhya Mountains.

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Video: Kajuraho

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General Information

The temples are divided into three groups: western, eastern and southern. The main group of temples, the southern group, is located in a beautifully manicured park with paths flowing smoothly one into the other. Keep in mind that the sculptures are best seen in the morning and afternoon.

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The erotic carvings that girdle the three groups of World Heritage-listed temples of Kajuraho are among the most exquisite examples of temple art in the entire world. The western group of temples, in particular, boasts some simply stunning works.

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Many travelers complain about the constant presence of intrusive callers and so choose the quieter charms of nearby Orchha. Their complaints are valid, but be warned: forgoing a visit to Kajuraho means you won’t get to see some of the most beautiful temples in India.

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Come in February-March, when the western group of temples becomes the scene of a week-long dance festival.

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History

Legend has it that Kajuraho was founded by Chhardravarman, son of the moon god Chhandra (Chandra), who descended to earth and saw a beautiful girl bathing in the water. Historians claim that the temples were built by the Chandela dynasty (Chandela). Many of the temples originally stood on the lake. Most of the 85 temples, of which 25 survive today, were built during the age of cultural flourishing, from 950 to 1050, and remained active long after the Chandela moved the capital to the city of Mahoba.

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We should be grateful to English hunters for discovering these masterpieces in 1840.Almost burrowed into the ground, they were hidden by the lush jungle vegetation. They didn’t see the light of day until they were excavated in 1923, 600 years after they were abandoned during wars with Muslim conquerors.

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Dangers and troubles

One of the main difficulties for tourists in Kajuraho is the constant extortion of donations and photo fees. This is often done by children. Also be wary of suspicious offers from guides who offer to take you to a local school or charity.

Many yogis and massage therapists are not qualified. This doesn’t necessarily mean they are bad yogis or masseurs, just be careful.

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Kajuraho Temples

These temples are a fine example of Indo-Aryan architecture, but what made Kajuraho famous were their frivolous murals. On the outer walls of the temples are entire ribbons of incredibly skillfully executed stone figures representing the story of life 1000 years ago: gods, goddesses, warriors, musicians, real and mythical animals.

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Two elements recur constantly: women and sex. Mithuna (pairs of men and women, usually depicted in erotic poses) certainly attract the eye, but the erotic content should not detract from the superb skill of the carvers. Sensual surasundaris (heavenly nymphs) with a proud posture, apsaras (dancing surasundaris) and naikas (mortal surasundaris) are depicted in a half-turn and slightly tilted to the sides, making it appear that the playful figures are dancing and twirling and are about to break away from the flat stone. A classic example is the laundress whose soaked sari clings to her body – there is as much eroticism in this painting as in any intertwined pair, threesome or foursome of people.

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Walk between temples with your right shoulder to the building: the right side is considered divine.

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The western group is inside the fence

The most impressive and best preserved temples of Kajuraho are outside the fence in the western group (Indians/foreigners 10/250 rupees, videography 25 rupees; dawn-sunset). This is the only group that you have to pay to see. A guide to Kajuraho from the Archaeological Survey of India (Rs 99) and an hour-and-a-half audio guide (Rs 50) are available at the ticket office.

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Two small temples – Varaha, dedicated to the reincarnation of Vishnu into a boar, and the enclosed Lakshmi temple – are opposite the huge Lakshmana temple. Inside the Vahara stands a stunning one-and-a-half-meter tall sandstone veddy, dating back to 900 AD and decorated with carvings depicting an entire pantheon of gods.

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The huge Lakshmana temple took 20 years to build and was completed around 954 AD, during the reign of Dhanga, so says a tablet in the mandar (columned pavilion in front of the temple). Undoubtedly, this temple is the best preserved in Kajuraho. Here you will find frescoes depicting battles and soldiers: the Chandela dynasty was usually always at war in their spare time from inventing new sexual positions. The south side depicts a simply acrobatic orgy. One of the characters clearly demonstrates that a horse can be a man’s best friend, while a shocked woman furtively peeks, shamefully covering her face with her hands. Other sensuous figures intertwine with elephants on the curb around the foundation. Magnificent effigies surround the garbhagriha (inner sanctum). Lakshmana is dedicated to Vishnu, though it strongly resembles the Shiva, Vishwanath and Kandariya Mahadev temples in its decorations.

Kandariya Mahadev, 30.5 m high, was built between 1025 and 1050.It is the largest temple in the city, representing the peak of Chapdel’s architectural heyday. The most striking depictions of female beauty and sexual aerobics are on the three center lanes. There are 872 acrobatic statues nearly 1m tall – taller than statues near other temples. One of the figures, which is often photographed, stands on his hands. The 31-meter-high Sikhara resembles a linga, the phallic symbol of Shiva worshipped by Hindus hoping to escape the cycle of constant rebirth. The symbol is decorated with 84 additional spires, the roof is made in the shape of a mountain, reminiscent of the Himalayan dwelling of these gods.

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Created in the mid-11th century, at the height of the Chandela clan’s power, the sculptures inside the temple are very candid and rich in detail: dancing apsara girls and sura-sundari nymphs, coquettishly yawning, scratching, applying makeup or playing with monkeys, parrots or their merry lovers. The Kandariya is the largest of all the temples in Kajuraho, and due to its size, the atmosphere of vitality that fills the place is even more intense as it begins to spill over the edge.

Mahadeva, a small ruined temple, is on the same platform as Kandariya Mahadev and Devi Jagadamba. The temple is dedicated to Shiva, who is depicted on the doorway at the entrance. It houses one of the best sculptures in Kajuraho: a one-meter-high sardula (a mythical animal, half lion, half someone else, sometimes a human).

Devi Jagadamba was originally dedicated to Vishnu, then to Parvati and after that to Kali. The murals depict sardulas with Vishnu, surasundari and mithuns prancing on the third and topmost lane. The three-tier decoration here is simpler than in the Kandariya Mahadev and Chitragupta (Chitragupta) temples. The temple is more similar to Chitragupta, but there is less decoration, so it is considered to be earlier.

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North of Devi Jagadamba is Chitragupta (1000-1025), a unique temple of Kajuraho and a very rare example among temples in northern India as it is dedicated to the sun god Surya. The temple is not as well preserved as the others. It has some beautifully carved images of apsaras and surasundaris, elephant fights and hunting scenes, mithuns and processions of people carrying stones. In the inner sanctum, Surya rides his chariot drawn by seven horses, and in a central niche on the southern facade is an eleven-headed statue of Vishnu, depicting the god’s reincarnations from 10 to 22.

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Moving along the fence, on the right side you will see a small Parvati temple, which was originally dedicated to Vishnu. It now has an image of Gauri riding a godha (iguana).

Supposedly built in 1002, the Visnvanath and Nandi temples can be seen by climbing the steps on the north and south sides. Elephants stand on the sides of the south staircase. Vishwanath is preceded by Kandariya Mahadev, from whom he is separated by saptamattrika (seven mothers) accompanied by Ganesha and Virabhandra. This is another brilliant example of Chandel’s architecture. Among its sculptures are graceful surasundaris writing letters, cradling babies, playing musical instruments and yet languishing even more invitingly than on other temples. On the opposite edge of the platform is a statue of Nandi, Shiva’s bull, 2.2 meters high. He looks out over the temple. The foundation of the twelve-column temple is decorated with a frieze of elephants, similar to the decoration on the facade of Lakshmana.

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The nearby white temple Pratapeswar is a much more modern brick, lime-whitewashed building built about 200 years ago.

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Western group – outside the fence

On the southern boundary of the fenced area is the only functioning temple of the western group, Matangesvara

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The ruins of the Chausath Yogini, located behind Shiv Sagar, date back to the 9th century and is likely the oldest structure in Kajuraho. Completely made of granite, it is the only temple not lined up in a west-east line. The name of the temple means “64”: the temple once had 64 cells for the yoginis (female priestesses) of Kali, and the 65th cell housed the goddess herself. It is believed to be the oldest yogini temple in India.

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600 m west down a path crossing a couple of fields (ask locals) is a small ruined granite-sand Lalguan Mahadev temple (Lalguan Mahadev; 900) dedicated to Shiva.

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Eastern group – temples of the old village

The eastern group includes three Hindu temples scattered around the old village and four Jain temples to the south; three of them are enclosed by a stone wall.

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The Hanuman temple on Basti Road has a 2.5-meter statue of a monkey god. It is little more than a bright orange tomb. Of interest is the inscription on the pedestal dated 922-the oldest dated inscription in Kajuraho.

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The granite Brahma temple with a sandstone sikhara that overlooks Narora Sagar is one of the oldest in Kajuraho (circa 900 AD). The four-faced lingam in the shrine has led to name confusion, but the image of Vishnu at the top, above the shrine door, suggests that the temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu.

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Similar to the Chaturbhuj temple from the southern group, Javari temple (Javari; 1075-1100) stands on the northern edge of the old village. It is dedicated to Vishnu and is a fine example of Kajuraho small architecture: the entrance is decorated with crocodiles and a slender sikhara.

Vamana Temple (Vamana; 1050-1075) is 200 m further north. It is dedicated to a dwarf, one of the incarnations of Vishnu. It has unusual details such as elephants protruding from the walls, the sikhara is devoid of auxiliary spires, and there are almost no erotic scenes. The Mahamandapa (main hall) is atypical for Kajuraho: it is roofed. But it is quite in keeping with the tradition of medieval temples of western India. Located between the old village and Jain territory, the tiny Jain Ghantai temple gets its name from the decorations on the pillars – ghanta (chain and bell). It was once similar to the neighboring Parsvanath temple, but now only the pillars remain. The temple is usually locked.

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Eastern Group – Jain Enclosure

Although Parsvanath temple cannot compete in height and explicit erotic scenes with the western group, it is the largest Jain temple in the Jain Enclosure. It is remarkable for the splendid workmanship and precision of its construction, and for its very beautiful sculptures. Some beautifully preserved famous images in Kajuraho can be seen here, including a woman removing a thorn from her leg and a woman coloring her eyes; both figures are on the south side. The temple was originally dedicated to Adinath (Adinath). About a century ago, a black image of Parshvanath was placed here. Both have inscriptions above the entrance to the mahamandapa and strongly resemble a simplified version of the Lakshmana temple dating from 950-970.

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The neighboring, smaller Adinath Temple has been partially restored over time. With its three bands of carved figures, it resembles the Hindu temples at Kajuraho, especially the Vamana temple. Only the black image in the sanctum sanctorum reminds that the temple belonged to the Jains.

Shanti Nath, built about a century ago, contains several items from other temples, including a 4.5 m tall statue of Adinath with an inscription on the pedestal dating back to 1027

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Southern Group

A muddy path leads to the isolated Duladeo Temple (Duladeq), located 1 km south of Jain territory. It is the youngest temple, dating from 1100-1150. It is partly made of wood, the statues are often repetitive, such as those of Shiva, all of which suggest that the builders of the temples of Kajuraho had by this time experienced the peak of their craftsmanship. But they had not lost their penchant for eroticism in any way.

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Next to the Duladeo temple is the ruined Chaturbhuja temple (Chaturbhuja; c. 1100)

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Just before Chaturbhuja, there is a signposted path to the Bijamandala Temple. This 11th century temple dedicated to Shiva (judging by the white marble lingam on the hilltop) is now under excavation. Several beautiful statues and unfinished carved compositions have been found, the size of which suggests that it was likely the largest temple in Kajuraho, which was abandoned for lack of resources to maintain it.

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Museums of Kajuraho

Archaeological Museum

Main Rd;visit Rs. 10, free with a ticket to see the western group;8.00-17.00

The Kajuraho Archaeological Museum is famous for its beautiful eleven-meter statue of Ganesha (a dancing deity with the head of an elephant). The museum has a small but perfectly preserved collection of sculptures from around Kajuraho. This is a good opportunity to view some beautifully preserved sculptures up close. At the time of our visit, the museum was scheduled to be moved to a larger room north of the western group, but don’t worry: this has been planned since 2006

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Adivart Tribal and Folk Art Museum

Simultaneously a museum and an art gallery, the Adivart Tribal and Folk Art Museum is a colorful alternative to temples.

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Link Rd #1;Indians/foreigners Rs. 10/50;10 a.m.-5 p.m. wt-wt-ws

Works of contemporary tribal cultures of two states, Madhya Pradesh and Chaggisgarh, are displayed here. Bhili drawings, terracotta sculptures of Jhoomar (Jhoomar), masks, statues and bamboo flutes can be seen here. Original autographed paintings can be bought starting from Rs 8000. Reproductions are for Rs 200.

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Old Village

If you can resist children constantly begging for money, then go on a walking or cycling tour through the streets of the old village, which will impress you. The houses here are whitewashed or painted in bright colors and the paths are decorated with small temples, wells and water pumps.

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Information

Internet cafes in the area usually charge 40 rupees per hour, 50 rupees for Skype calls. Health center (Community health center; 272498; Link Rd #2; 9 a.m.-1 p.m. and 2 p.m.-4 p.m.) Staff speak little English, but are always willing to help.

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Post Office (274022; 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Mon-Sat)

State Bank of India (272373; Main Rd; 10.30-16.30 Mon-Fri, 10.30-13.30 Sat) Currency and traveler’s checks exchange. There are ATMs near Raja’s Cafe and Paradise Restaurant.

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Tourist Interpretation and Facilitation Center (274051; khajuraho@mptourism.com; Main Rd; 10 a.m.-9 p.m.) Leaflets of the state’s tourist attractions. They have a counter at the airport and train station.

Tourist Police Department (272690; Main Rd; 6 a.m.-2 p.m.)

Getting around Kajuraho

A good solution is a bicycle. It can be rented at several places on Jain Temples Rd (20-50 rupees per day).

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A bicycle rickshaw will cost between 10 and 20 rupees in either direction around Kajuraho, and about 100/200 rupees for a half or full day tour. Autorickshaws are about twice as expensive.

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Taxis from the airport and train station cost Rs 150/250, autorickshaws Rs 50/80, but if you don’t have much luggage, you can stop a bus or shared jeep (Rs 10) on Jhansi Road or outside the city.

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Road to and from Kajuraho

Airplane

Jet Airways (274406; 10.00-15.30); has an office at the airport; there are daily flights to Delhi at 13.45 (from 4200,3.5 hours) via Varanasi (Varanasi; from 3800,40 minutes). The Air India office (274035; Jhansi Rd; 10.00-16.50 Mon-Sat) is closer to the city; there are flights at 14.00 to the same cities, but only on Mondays,Wednesdays and Fridays.

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Bus

If the bus station ticket office (7.00-12.00 and 13.00-15.00) is closed, you can ask for help from the owner of the Mad-hur coffee kiosk opposite, he is very friendly and can be trusted.

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There are three day buses to Jhansi (Rs 130, 5 hours, 5.30,7.00 and 9.00). All of them will take you to the junction with the road to Orchha, where you can always find an auto rickshaw for a few people (Rs 10) to Orchha. Regular buses run to Madla (to Panna National Park; Rs 25, 1 hour, 8.00-19.00), where you can change to Satna (Rs 65, 3 hours). There are two direct buses to Satna (Rs 110, four hours, 2.00pm and 3.00pm), from where you can take the train to other cities.

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It is much easier to catch a bus at Bamitha Junction. 11 km down Highway-75 (Hwy 75). Buses to Gwalior, Jhansi and Satna run past it all day long constantly. You can reach Bamitha by “shared” jeep (for several people, Rs. 10,7.00-19.00); they leave from the bus station, or you can catch them on Jhansi Road.

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Taxis

The cab drivers’ union, Yashowaran Taxi Driver Union, is located opposite Goal Market. Prices: airport (Rs 150), railway station (Rs 250), Raneh Waterfalls (Raneh; Rs 500), Panna National Park (Panna; Rs 1500), Satna (Rs 2000), Orchha (2900), Chitrakut (2900), Bandhavgarh (4800), Varanasi (6800) and Agra (7000).

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Train

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Three convenient trains depart from the Kajuraho railway station.

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The daily passenger train leaves Jhansi at 12 noon, stopping at the tiny Orchha station (Rs. 30, 4 hours). Only 2nd class is available here, so you can’t book a ticket in advance. Just come to the station, buy a general ticket and board the coach.

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On Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, 22447 Khajuraxo-Nizamuddin Express (sleeper/3rd with cond./2nd with cond. Rs. 273/713/960, departure 6 pm,11.5 hours) via Agra (sleeper/3rd with cond./2nd with cond. Rs. 210/527/699, 8.5 hours).

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On Tuesdays,Fridays and Sundays, 21107 Bundelkhand Link Express (sleeper/3rd with cond./2nd with cond. Rs 198/522/694, departure 23.00,12 hours) via Chitrakut (5 hours) and Allahabad (8 hours).

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Train tickets can be bought at the advance ticket office (274416; 8.00-12.00 and 13.00-16.00 Mon-Sat. 8.00-14.00 Sun) at the bus stop. Must be booked at least 4 hours before departure.

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21108 Bundelkhand Link Express departs from Varanasi to Kajuraho on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays at 5.10 pm;

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Eats Allahabad (22.25) and Chitrakut , arrives in Kajuraho at 5.15.22448 Nizamuddin-Kajuraho Express departs from Hazrat Nizamuddin station in Delhi on Tuesdays,Fridays and Sundays at 22.15 and passes through Agra (23.20) before arriving in Kajuraho (6.05). The afternoon passenger train leaves Jhansi at 7.20, stops at Orchha (7.25) and arrives at Kajuraho at noon.

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