Isla Mujeres

Isla Mujeres is a popular island resort in Mexico. It’s a quick ferry ride from Cancun; but the atmosphere here is like another planet. Francisco Hernández de Córdova, the first European to visit the Yucatán, gave the island its name, meaning “Island of Women” (from Spanish mujer – woman) – he went ashore in 1517 and found clay statues of half-clothed women on the island.

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General Information

Today, tourists come here in droves, and yet the resort on Isla Mujeres has largely retained the unique atmosphere of a sleepy fishing village, and prices here are lower than in Cancun. The length of the island is only 8 km, width – 2 km, but there are exotic animals. The climate of the island is tropical, the sea is turquoise blue and warm all year round. There is plenty to do for the whole family; regular ferry connections to the mainland make the island a great base for exploring the Riviera Maya. There are areas where you can snorkel; the best beaches are located in the south of the west coast. At the northern tip of the island are the ferry dock, town and the most popular beach, Cocoteros (Playa Socoteros), also known as Playa Norte and Nautibeach. You can hardly get lost in the narrow streets of the town; the main square serves as a basketball court (it is located just behind the docks). There are good restaurants.

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Beaches

Sandy beaches on the west coast of Isla Mujeres are the most popular – the sea is calm, everything is well equipped and, despite this, not too crowded compared to Cancun. The windward side is less developed and can have high surf. Playa Norte, North Beach, is the most popular beach on the island and is within walking distance of the town. Kayaks, masks and flippers, sun loungers and beach umbrellas can all be rented here and spent blissful hours sipping cocktails under a thatched canopy. Paradise Beach, Playa Paraiso and Boatmen’s Beach, Playa Lancheros on the southeast coast of the island are ideal for a relaxing swim in crystal clear waters. Indian Beach, Playa lndios is an exclusive beach famous for its shark “pools”: under the supervision of an instructor you can swim with a shark.

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What to see and do

El Garrafon Natural Reef Park

At the southern tip of Isla Mujeres is El Garrafon National Park, where you can choose from a variety of exotic activities at sea and on land. At sea, you can explore the seabed with snuba diving (the same as scuba diving, but the air tanks are on a raft drifting next to you) and “si-trek” (walking on the seabed wearing a special helmet). You can rent a mask or a kayak with a transparent bottom. On land there are such entertainments as ziplining (rappelling down the mountain on a slanted cable; you put on a helmet, get comfortable in a belt saddle, a carabiner is attached to this “harness”, the second end of which is attached to the slanted cable, and, like a flying squirrel, you are swiftly carried to the foot of the mountain), climbing the observation tower, as well as snack bars and a restaurant. In the afternoon, the park gets crowded as sightseers from Cancun arrive.

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Garrafon-Punta Sur, km 6. Tel: 998-849-49-50. www.garrafon.com

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Hacienda Mundaca

This hacienda, surrounded by a lovely garden, was built by Mundasa, a famous pirate and slave trader, for the woman he loved – alas, not reciprocated. She was a local girl, and she preferred a simple young man to a cruel, though wealthy, old corsair. Her rejection drove Mundas into madness, and he died alone in distant Mérida; in the cemetery of Isla Mujeres you can see his tombstone with engraved skull and bones. The hacienda and garden have been restored; it is now a zoo, home to snakes, birds, monkeys, and an obscurely large cat.

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East on Avenida Rueda Medina, near Playa Lancheros.

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Laguna Maca

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This is a mysterious lagoon where, according to belief, bloodthirsty pirates lurked, stalking Spanish ships.

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Avenida Rueda Medina, about 3 kilometers south of the city.

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Turtle Farm

Giant sea turtles have nested and bred here for centuries. They used to be killed for meat, their eggs were dug out of the sand and also eaten. Now there is a real turtle paradise, where the reptiles continue to lay eggs in the soft sand from May to September. Today, the turtles are protected by the state and their egg-laying sites are fenced off so that the eggs are not harmed; the hatchlings are placed in special ditches where they grow up before being released into the wild. A visit to the farm leaves an unforgettable impression.

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Carretera Sac-Bajo, Laguna Macah. Tel: 998-877-05-95. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.

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Excursions

Birdwatching

North of Isla Mujeres is the tiny Isla Contoy; it is 8 km long and only 20 meters wide at its maximum. More than 70 species of birds live here, including brown pelicans, pink spoonbills, herons, kingfishers and great cormorants. Flocks of flamingos come here in April. In June, July and August, the best time to watch turtles bury their eggs in the sand at night is when you can see them. The island can be reached in 45 minutes by boat from Isla Mujeres, but the number of sightseers is limited, so book a tour in advance. We recommend doing so through Contoy Express Tours (Tel: 998-877-13-67). Birdwatching can also be done on the mainland at the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, a large park with over 330 species of birds.

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Mayan Ruins

The ruins of the temple of Ishchel (Ish-Chel), goddess of the moon, moonlight and rainbows in the Mayan pantheon, can be seen at the southern tip of Isla Mujeres; however, because the temple stood on a high cliff above the sea, it has been badly damaged by hurricanes, and now the best thing to see here is the seascape. On the mainland shore is the settlement of Tulum, which has left a mark on history. You can also visit the picturesque ruins of the Mayan city of Chichen Itza and see them in one day; however, you can book a two-day excursion. We recommend Viajes Prisma (Avenida Rueda Medina, 9C; Tel: 998-877-09-38).

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Nightlife

In Isla Mujeres, loud music won’t keep you awake. There are plenty of cute bistros, beach bars where you can cut loose, and unassuming clubs with good music and a friendly atmosphere. Playa Sol is the best beach bar for sunset cocktails and live music (Playa Norte). Also on Playa Norte you’ll find Na Balam, the hotel’s bar, where crowds of tourists flock to happy hours from 5pm to 8pm and party until midnight, with live music on weekends. At Bar Ot you can quench your thirst with a beer and listen to jazz, reggae and latino music (Calle Matamoros). Bar La Pena has a rooftop terrace; many vacationers gather there late at night to dance and play a game of pool (Avenida Guerrero, across from Church Square).

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If you want a good margarita after midnight, head to La Adelita for more than 100 varieties of tequila (Avenida Hidalgo, 12A). Las Palapas Chimbos is a waterfront restaurant with live music every night after 9 p.m.

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Shopping

Isla Mujeres has about the same selection of local handicrafts, clothing and jewelry as the tourist stores on the mainland, but cheaper. You will see all the same T-shirts on the counters, but without the inscriptions “Cancun”, “Cozumel” and even “Isla Mujeres”. Lots of souvenir shops in the docks area; there’s a supermarket on the east side of town. Visit Artesanias Arco Iris (Avenida Hidalgo and Juarez) if you want to buy silverware, gemstones, or handmade items like intricately patterned quilts. De Corazon (Avenida Abasolo, between Hidalgo and Guerrero) is a small boutique that sells locally made cosmetics, jewelry, scented candles and embroidery. If you need scuba gear, go to Bahia Dive Shop (Avenida Rueda Medina, 166), and for Cuban cigars, go to Tobacco & Co (Avenida Hidalgo, 14, Plaza Rocateliz). Isla Mujeres is known for its high-quality gemstones; you can buy them here unset and even uncut. Stop by Rachet & Rose (Avenida Morelos, and Juarez).

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