Guilin Mounts

Guilin is an amazing natural monument and one of the most picturesque places on the planet, the Chinese are very proud of this attraction. Emerging from marine sediments, layers of limestone rose above sea level about 360,000 years ago. This began the erosion that characterizes karst areas in the tropics and subtropics and created the karst shapes in the form of towers, cones, sinkholes and caves that can be seen today.

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In Chinese, the name of the mountains means “forest of cassia trees” – a very symbolic name, as the limestone pillars are indeed very similar in appearance to stone trees. These mountains are home to the city of the same name, which is one of the country’s largest airports.

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Today, the Guilin Mountains stretch from the south of Central China to the north of Vietnam, presenting a stunning picture of sheer cliffs, often up to a hundred meters high, almost vertical, clinging to each other.

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Video: Guilin City and Mountains

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Active recreation

Along with Guilin, the region has another tourist center, Yangshuo. The hotels and tourist centers here offer bicycle, raft and canoe rides, motorcycle rides, Chinese language and qigong courses, painting courses, climbing routes (only in winter) and much more. Both Guilin and Yangshuo also offer exciting evening bus tours – for example, you can watch cormorants fishing.

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Guilin city sights

Elephant Trunk Mountain (Xiangbishan)

A little south of the old city, an elephant stands on the west bank of the Li River. True, this huge animal has no ears, legs and tail, nevertheless it looks exactly like an elephant that has lowered its trunk into Lijiang. This impression is created by the hole in the mountain – at least when the water level is high enough. This curiosity can be observed from a public garden on the shore north of it.

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Shanhu and Ronghu Lakes

The shady promenades of Lake Kunningamii north of Elephant Mountain and the adjoining Banyan Lake to the west are ideal for strolling. One block west of Guilin’s main street, Zhongshan Zhonglu, on the north bank, stands the old city wall gate. In the area between the city gate and the main street, students from the nearby foreign language institute often talk to foreigners. The fact is that there is a so-called “English Corner” here, providing a good opportunity to ask young Chinese interested in communication what is not written in books.

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Fuboshan

If you follow the river embankment north to the end, you will come across a typical karst cone. It is called: Crushing Waves because it stands directly beside the water and appears to be floating on the river. It can be viewed both from above and below. From above means climbing up three hundred and twenty-three steps and enjoying a magnificent panorama from a height of 62 meters. From below means that the foot of the cone is hollow and you can descend into the natural catacombs inside the mountain, down to the opening and rocky terrace right by the river. Already in the Tang era, Buddhist sculptures totaling about two hundred were carved out of the rock here. You can also see the stone-carved calligraphy of Mi Fu (1051-1107), one of the most prominent and still famous artists and calligraphers of the Song Dynasty. Opening hours: daily. 8.30-16.30.

Seven Stars Park (Qixing Gongyuan)

From the center of Guilin, the Liberation Bridge (Jiefangqiao) leads to the east bank; as you continue along the street, you will come to the Seven Stars Park, named for its seven peaks corresponding to the seven main stars of the Big Dipper. Here you can have a lot of fun. You can also visit the stalactite cave (Qixingyuai) and other walls, one of them (the extreme one from the west) all covered with ancient inscriptions. You can often trace the emergence of stone sculptures here; they are sold in a store next to the cave.

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Camelback Mountain

Further east, the climb begins; however, it is possible to bypass the karst hill on the south side. At the eastern end of the park is a small, very modest zoo, with a large panda saddened. You can also see one of Guilin’s most famous karst cones here – on Camel Mountain, which rightfully bears the name. Opening hours: daily. 8.00-17.00.

Reed Flute Cave (Liuidian)

Typical of karst areas are stalactite caves, and this is just the “model cave” for tourists arriving in Guilin: it is large enough and not far from the city. True, you should be warned: there are more beautiful stalactite caves, and full of fantasy bright illumination does not necessarily enhance the impression of this cave. It is better to take a Chinese guide, for what Chinese eyes can discern in the bizarre stone formations is closely related to local cultural peculiarities. 6 km from the city. Opening hours: daily. 8.00-17.30.

Graves of the Princes (Jingqiangwanling)

6 kilometers east of the city in the countryside at the western foot of Yaoshan Mountain lies partially restored, mostly still “wild” necropolis of those Ming princes who lived in Guilin palace. A total of eleven princes and their spouses were buried here from 1370 to 1645 – in imposing tomb complexes, although not imperial, but quite significant in size: the smallest occupies an area of 0.5 hectares, the largest – 21 hectares. Completely restored and therefore looks like a new tomb of the third prince (with a gate, manicured with greenery, with a stone guard of honor and a hall for sacrifices) – this is how all tomb temples looked in their time, but much more to the Western visitor speak unrestored tombs with their witchy atmosphere. On the way to the graves of the princes you can, by the way, pass a regular cemetery in the local style – with small grave mounds and ring-shaped fences. Opening hours: daily. 8.30-17.30. Route 24 bus from Jiefangqiao Bridge.

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Yaoshan

Yaoshan Mountain (909 meters above sea level, 760 meters above the plain) is the highest peak in the surrounding area. A funicular takes visitors from the Graves of the Princes to the summit in 20 minutes. Those who want more thrills can ride down a huge 1 km long chute from the intermediate station of the funicular and land at the Tomb of the Princes.

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Free bus

Something to take note of: the No. 58 bus takes you to Guilin’s most important tourist attractions for free, including the Reed Flute Cave, Fuboshan Hill, and Seven Stars Park.

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Li River Trip (Lijiang)

Now the fun part begins: the 83 kilometers along the Lijiang River from Guilin to Yangshuo is the main thing that attracts tourists to Guilin. Moving along the clear river, you’ll see quaint mountains, villages, colonies of bathers and fishermen with cormorants float by – if you’re lucky with the weather, it will be one of the most amazing trips of your life. On all riverboats, you can stand on the top deck and enjoy the panorama. Each ship has a galley that provides travelers with a hot multi-course lunch (included in the trip price); even local delicacies can be enjoyed for a fee, including shrimp from the Lijiang River, which, despite the cramped conditions, is cooked to perfection.

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During most of the year, you can take a bus 30 kilometers downriver to the Zhujiang Marina because the water level is quite low in Guilin itself. From there, from 9.00 to 10.00, the boats leave one after another (there is often a lot of hustle and bustle, be careful not to lose sight of your tour group!) and after about four hours you arrive in Yangshuo; from there you take the bus back (the boats only go back empty). It’s best to book your hotel right away; otherwise you’ll have a lot of unnecessary hassle and the trip will cost a lot more. Sailing on the Li River is not cheap as it is, on the contrary: you should expect at least 350 yuan; without special expenses and in the winter season (from December to March) the sum of 450-500 yuan looks more realistic, with better food and a better boat with fewer passengers. Caution. Cheap options can mean food in cartons, crowded decks, and sometimes no return transportation!

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Of course, the trip can be spent in silence, immersed in your own thoughts, but it’s much more interesting to learn what beliefs the Chinese associate with the many mountains the ship passes by. Illustrated pamphlets describing the trip down the river may be helpful, but much will escape the tourists’ gaze unless one turns in the right direction at the right moment. Therefore, the services of a guide who knows Russian or English are always worthwhile. Here are just some of the sights starting from the Zhujiang pier: Dragons playing with water (right bank) – stalactites hanging on the rock wall, overgrown with green moss, from which water drips. Waiting for her husband (right bank) – the rock looks like a woman standing with a child behind her. Boy honoring Buddha (left bank) – a small rocky peak stands in front of a large one. Snail Hill (right bank) – with a spiraling edge. Brush Stand Hill (right bank) – a row of peaks lying close to each other with rounded hollows between them – Chinese ink painters and calligraphers place their brushes on a device of this form when they briefly interrupt their work.

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Yangshuo

While Chinese tour groups mainly depart from Guilin to explore the scenery and return there after traveling along the river, foreign individual tourists often choose to stay longer in Yangshuo after their river cruise. This city, once a small insignificant village, now lives mainly on tourism revenue, which entails a number of unpleasant accompanying phenomena, especially in the surrounding villages. If you’re used to people trying to force things on you that you don’t need, that you almost always have to haggle and constantly make sure you don’t get ripped off, then you’ll find a lot of positive things about Yangshuo. First of all, life here is noticeably cheaper than in Guilin. There are many nice private campgrounds, many cafes and eateries tailored to foreigners’ tastes, as well as a range of other relevant services such as bike rentals, as Yangshuo is an ideal place for large and small self-guided trips to other places along the Li River, as well as to idyllic countryside, full of markets, villages, quaint karst peaks, caves, and opportunities for swimming, boating and kayaking. This is one of not too many places in China where you can enjoy spending a whole month.

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Markets

Every day in Yangshuo is divided into two unequal parts: the roughly two hours between the arrival of the ships and the departure of the last buses taking tourists back to Guilin, when thousands of visitors fill the streets, and the remaining twenty-two hours when the city is cozy and quiet. In the markets that stretch from the pier to the bus stands and from the river along the main street (Xi Jie, West Street), of course, deals are turned during the said two hours. The range on offer there makes Yangshuo simply a souvenir hunter’s paradise. In addition to all sorts of textiles (including cheap silk), there is an abundance of porcelain trinkets and jade and other stone carvings, fake antiques, children’s toys and sometimes very complex puzzles for adults, and in addition, of course, fruit, drinks, etc.

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Another thing is the central market for locals (on Diecui Lu Street north of Xi Jie), which sells mostly agricultural products and offers a rich assortment of fruits, mushrooms, vegetables, etc.

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Attractions

There are many small curious targets for cycling and hiking in and around the town at any distance. In the city itself, you’ll enjoy Yangshuo Park and Mt. Biliang with the park-where there’s plenty of water-just above the river to the east. Interesting places lie 7-8 km south of the city, on the other side of the Yulunhe River: here grows a banyan tree, the antiquity of which can not help but inspire reverence. Its huge crown casts shade over half a hectare, and its age is estimated to be between 1,400 and 1,500 years. Just behind the banyan tree is the Moon Mountain, which is remarkable in its appearance: it has a hole in it that is round and crescent-shaped. It’s worth climbing up and, if you’re brave enough, walk further up to the top of the natural bridge. You will be rewarded with a magnificent panorama. But for safety reasons, you should not walk this route alone.

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Food

Guilin

Guilin is famous for exotic foods such as raccoons, snakes, lizards and freshwater snails, as well as a luxurious abundance of fruits and vegetables, including water chestnuts, lotus root, taro, carambola, kumkat (dwarf oranges) and lychee. So you can fully satisfy your passion for discovery, and even those who do not order special delicacies will still enjoy the food, and for a modest fee. The pedestrianized area of Zhengyang Lu Street is lined with many cafes, mostly inexpensive. The more modest eateries are crowded to the north, near the teacher training institute. They serve horse meat, among other things.

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Yangshuo

The many foreign tourists in Guilin tend to dine at hotels, so few independent cafes and restaurants cater to foreigners’ tastes. In Yangshuo, 90 kilometers south of Guilin, the opposite is the case: on Xicheng Lu there are especially many pleasant little cafes serving food from all over the world and even having menus in English. Prices are low to mid-range.

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