Bolshoi Utrish
Bolshoi Utrish is a unique nature reserve with a protected relict juniper forest in the Krasnodar region of Russia. The protected area is located on the Abrau Peninsula, which falls into the Black Sea 19 kilometers south of the resort town of Anapa. Wonderful climate, gentle southern sun, spectacular landscape of hilly foothills of the North Caucasus, beaches near the warm sea attract many tourists from all over the country. Bolshoi Utrish is easily accessible from Anapa and other coastal resorts by bus or pleasure boat.
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Video: Bolshoi Utrish
Contents
- Highlights
- Geography and climate
- Sights of Bolshoi Utrish
- Beaches
Active recreation in Bolshoi Utrish - Entertainment
- Cafes and restaurants
- Where to stay
- How to get there
Highlights
The Bolshoi Utrish Landscape Reserve occupies a special place on the map of resorts in the North Caucasus: it is the only location in Russia with climatic conditions and flora close to the subtropical weather and vegetation of the Mediterranean basin. The local relict forest has paths for health-improving and informative walks.
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In the resort village of Bolshoi Utrish tourists are welcomed by guest houses, private apartments and campsites. There are equipped beaches, open cafes and restaurants. For secluded bathing you will find many secluded corners among the coastal rocks of the reserve. In the village built a dolphinarium, a few kilometers away are amusement parks.
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In the bay at the moorings are swaying sailboats yacht club. There are diving centers where you can rent scuba diving. Locals offer motorized boats for boat trips and fishing. There are horseback riding clubs and paintball fields in neighboring villages. Private guides offer walking tours, trips to the sights of Anapa, arrange jeep safaris in the surrounding foothills, where you can see the wonderful panoramas of the Black Sea coast.
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Geography and climate
The Bolshoi Utrish Nature Reserve with an area of 5112 hectares is spread over a 12-kilometer stretch of the Black Sea coast between Anapa (19 km to the north) and Novorossiysk (60 km along the highway to the southeast). The reserve is 129 km away from Krasnodar, the capital of the region. At its northern cordon are the villages of Bolshoi Utrish and Sukko, on the southern perimeter is the village of Maly Utrish. At present, the clear boundaries of the protected area are not defined.
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The landscape here is mountainous, replete with gorges, landslides and cliffs. On the land side, Bolshoi Utrish is surrounded by a semicircle of rocks of Navagirsky Ridge – part of the mountain range of the North Caucasus. The Sanskrit toponym “Navagir” means “New Mountains”. Interestingly, the ancient name fully corresponds to reality. Geologists have found out that the ridge was formed as a result of a powerful earthquake that happened here about 7000 years ago. The cataclysm was preserved in the historical memory of local peoples. The legends of the mountaineers tell about the battle of the gods that took place in time immemorial.
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The highest point on the territory of the reserve – Mount Utrish, rising 485 meters above the sea waters. An ancient cataclysm left a trace in the sea. The precipitous shores are a part of the Utrish fault, which collapsed the coastal rocks into the sea abyss. Landslides created the Bolshoi Utrish peninsula and the island, protruding even further into the open sea. Now there is an automatic lighthouse on its rocks. The last earthquake was recorded here in the century before last. This area is still seismically active.
The forest lands of the reserve are dominated by hornbeam, oak and coniferous trees. On the mountain slopes there are groves of relict pizundskaya pine, thuja, thickets of rare shrubs inherent in the area of the Mediterranean flora. Of special value in Bolshoi Utrish are endemic pistachio trees and tree-like junipers, which appeared here in the Tertiary geological period, about 60 million years ago. Botanists have found forest long-livers at least 1000 years old. In total, there are 107 species of trees and up to 75 species of herbs and flowers in the reserve. In the Red Book 60 varieties of plants from Bolshoi Utrish are registered. The air in this wonderful corner is filled with a delightful mix of juniper, floral and coniferous aromas, mixed with the iodine smell of algae and fresh sea breeze. Medics claim: the atmosphere of relict forests is scattered phytoncides, which have healing properties.
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Animals larger than hares, squirrels hedgehogs and gophers have not survived in the forests. Poisonous reptiles in Bolshoi Utrish is also absent. On warm stones sometimes there are harmless polozes, basking in the sun. Birds of prey hunt small game: white-tailed eagles, peregrine falcons, black vultures. Swans winter in the surrounding lakes, gulls and cormorants nest on the coastal cliffs.
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In the waters of the Black Sea, adjacent to the protected coast, there are mullet, mackerel, flounder, small hamsa (anchovy), Black Sea sharks and dolphins. There is a population of Mediterranean turtles. The underwater world is decorated with 227 species of algae.
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The climate in the reserve, protected from the north and east by a horseshoe of mountain ranges, is close to the Mediterranean. Summers are hot here, winters are warm. In January the air rarely cools down below +2…+4 °С. Spring comes to Bolshoi Utrish early. Indicators of air temperature from the end of May to the middle of October are stably kept within +25 … +27 °С, in August it can be up to +30 … +34 °С. In these months, the water in the Black Sea at the beaches of Bolshoi Utrish warms up to +23 … +24 ° C.
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Attractions of Bolshoi Utrish
The main attractions of the Bolshoi Utrish Reserve are groves of evergreen juniper and pistachio trees, impressive landscapes and deserted beaches in sea lagoons.
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The protected forest has trails for hiking, horseback riding and cycling. An inconspicuous path along the coast to the southeast leads to the Zhemchuzhny waterfall. The sparkling water of the stream falls on the pebble beach at the edge of the sea surf. The seven-meter high ledge of the waterfall is covered with vines, life-loving trees grow from cracks in the rock. From here you can see Cape Crocodile, washed by waves, resembling the head of a petrified alligator, and one of the hidden Utrish sea lagoons. Here you should bathe and take an invigorating shower under the jets of the waterfall.
In the village of Bolshoi Utrish private guides offer walking tours along the ecological trails of the reserve with visits to waterfalls and access to observation platforms above the sea. The guide will familiarize tourists with the rarest plants, tell about animals and birds inhabiting the reserve forest. Duration of the hike – 2-3 hours, the cost – from 200 rubles per person. Comfortable clothes and shoes are required, we also advise you to bring water and sandwiches. During the hike do not forget to put garbage in a bag, and then take it to the nearest waste bin.
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In the Center for the Study of the Black Sea excursions are conducted by biologists. In a small oceanarium presents underwater inhabitants of the local water area. In the laboratory inquisitive tourists learn about miniature representatives of marine flora and fauna, observe sea creatures through a microscope.
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Beaches
On the Central beach of the village of Bolshoi Utrish there are canopies and umbrellas, sun beds are issued. Coverage – small pebbles, the bottom is gentle. There is a children’s playground with inflatable pools and water slides. Catamarans, jet skis and “bananas” are available for rent. You can fly on a parachute, play beach volleyball. Near the water there is a pizzeria, several seasonal stands with drinks and snacks. Equipped with showers, toilets. Garbage is taken out.
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About a kilometer from the village, on Cape Utrish, near the dolphinarium and yacht club there are two beaches with pebble surface. Another unequipped pebble beach is located in the area of the Utrish lighthouse on an island separated from the cape by a narrow strait. Through it poured dam with a dirt road.
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Behind the cape opens a lagoon, convenient for swimming. In season, tourists set up their cars and tents near it. In summer, there are cafes and beach equipment rentals.
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To the south stretches the territory of the wildlife preserve with a wild precipitous coast. Paths will point you to the descents to the water.
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In the Utrish lagoon, which is near Cape Crocodile, there is a secluded stretch of coastline, favored by nudists. If such a neighborhood you are embarrassed, go further south, to the second lagoon – on the shore space is enough for everyone. Other lagoons with pebble beaches are difficult to access and are located far away. It is more convenient to get there by motorboat-taxi. Motorboat owners deliver tourists to the wild beaches for 200 rubles.
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In one of the lagoons (the third from the village) access to the open sea is hampered by huge boulders. Collapsed rocks have created underwater labyrinths overgrown with algae, grottoes and caves where sea creatures live. This is a great location for scuba divers. Another surprise awaits vacationers on the shore. Climbing up a steep slope, they will find a beautiful lake, which is so called – Picturesque.
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Active recreation in Bolshoi Utrish
For fans of casting a fishing rod in Bolshoi Utrish all conditions are created. Local owners of motor boats organize three-hour trips to the open sea (400 rubles per person), providing customers with spinning, tackle and bait. Many boats are equipped with modern echo sounders, allowing you to track fish flocks in the depths. You can cook your catch at one of the campgrounds along the coast. Here you can rent picnic shelters equipped with barbecues.
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On Cape Bolshoi Utrish operates a private yacht club. For resort guests are arranged romantic walks on board sailing boats with a crew. Such tours are not without fishing or underwater hunting. The desired prey – large mullet (Pilengas), the weight of fish reaches 5-7 kg. Equipment for scuba divers can be rented in the village diving centers “Utrish”, “Katran” and “Akula”. Divers are delivered by boats to the most interesting of the explored underwater sites. For beginners are organized short courses, diving – accompanied by instructors.
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Entertainment
On the Salt Lake, which is near Cape Utrish, a 5-minute walk from the village, built dolphinarium. Its peculiarity is that the dolphins are in a natural environment. For comfortable dwelling of “artists” a part of the sea bay, turned into a closed pond, is fenced off. Black Sea inhabitants – smiling dolphins-aphalines, as well as inhabitants of other seas: sea lion seals, beluga whales, sea lions. A ticket to the show will cost 1000 rubles, kids under 5 years old are admitted for free. After the show you can swim in the company of dolphins. The cost of pleasure – 2000 rubles. 50-minute performances of marine animals are held from May to October, three times a day – at 11:00, 15:00, 17:30. Weekends – Monday, Thursday.
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3 km north of the village of Bolshoi Utrish, on the high seashore you will find the most popular panoramic site on the local coast. Here is erected Lermontov’s gazebo – a light rotunda with a turquoise dome resting on five white columns. Car tourists stop at the rotunda to take some memorable photos. Further, on the way to Anapa, do not miss the health center “MorePAR” in the village of Sukko (Primorskaya Street, 7). The highlight of the sauna complex is a steam room with sea water. It offers massage with herbs and mountain honey. There is a small pool, gazebos with barbecues are right by the sea.
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On the northeastern outskirts of the village of Sukko built entertainment center “Lion’s Head”. On the territory of a fake medieval castle there is a ristalische, where costumed knights’ tournaments are held. Spectators watch the fights from the stands. Shows last for 1 hour. Tickets for morning shows are sold for 500 rubles for adults and 400 rubles for children. The cost of watching the evening show is 600 and 400 rubles respectively. On the territory of the castle there is a Museum of instruments of torture of heretics by inquisitors. Craftsmen demonstrate their skills in the pottery workshop and blacksmith shop. You can buy souvenirs made before your eyes. Test your marksmanship in the Robin Hood shooting gallery, where you can shoot at targets with bows and crossbows. Grab a bite to eat in the castle tavern, where oak tables and benches are set up and food is served in rustic pottery. For parking near the entertainment center you have to pay 250 rubles. Parking in the parking lot, located on the inner territory of the complex, is estimated at 600 rubles.
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In the same village, in the area of Cypress Lake, arranged rope park “Brave Heart”. The ropes are supported by century-old trees. Four levels of suspended paths, rickety bridges and ladders, swinging platforms and nets rising higher and higher await extreme athletes. The cost of going through the mazes starts from 250 rubles.
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The park offers other adventures. Rent weapons, equipment, and join one of the paintball game teams (600 rubles). Another kind of battle is laser tag, where opponents hit each other with futuristic laser weapons. The “wounding” is signaled by sensors embedded in hats and vests. The cost of participation is 500 rubles. Both games are controlled by referees. Putting aside the laser blaster, go to the shooting range to shoot with good old bows and crossbows for 350 rubles. Beginning shooters are taught the techniques of medieval weapons.
Kids will be interested in master classes in the pottery workshop. Friendly craftsmen will teach children to mold and paint clay figures (session – from 100 rubles). Carved gazebos are built in secluded corners of the park. Here you can sit by the barbecue, relax and grill shashlyk. The adventure park is open from 09:00 to 20:00. Entrance is free, tickets for attractions are sold at the ticket office.
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In the village of Varvarovka is a private equestrian yard (Tsentralnaya Street, 2). Tourists are offered horseback riding in the picturesque foothills of the Caucasus accompanied by instructors. The cost of an hour’s horseback ride is 700 rubles, two-hour ride – 1400 rubles. The path runs through hilly vineyards, sparse forests, valleys overgrown with fragrant herbs.
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Local private travel agencies offer to pokoleesya around Bolshoi Utrish on quad bikes, organize jeep tours in the mountains. Picnics and entertainment await the participants at the viewpoints.
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Cafes and restaurants
In village canteens of Bolshoi Utrish a full three-course lunch will cost 230-250 rubles per person. Inexpensive dining rooms can be found in the guest houses of the village. The check for a meal in a cafe is slightly higher, it will be 500-1200 rubles.
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In 100 meters from the Center for the Study of the Black Sea, at the isthmus leading to Cape Utrish, is one of the best local cafes – “Laguna”. The price range for main courses is 100-500 rubles. The menu includes fried Black Sea mullet, grilled flounder, delicious shrimps and mussels, kebabs, salads, pastries. Dinner for three will cost 2600-2800 rubles.
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To the south, in the area of beaches, guests are welcomed by the German restaurant Bavaria. Several varieties of good German beer are served, accompanied by spicy appetizers, smoked sausages. The price range for main dishes is 500-1200 rubles. The institution is open around the clock.
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The veranda of the stylishly decorated restaurant “Fort Utrish” overhangs the pebble beach, giving visitors a view of the sea. The average check here is 2500-3000 rubles. Restaurant’s guests use beach equipment and parking free of charge.
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Where to stay
Right at the entrance to the village of Bolshoi Utrish from the direction of Anapa, tourists are met by the recreation center “Lesnoy Dvorik”. Here you can stay in a room with minimal amenities for 700 rubles per day, rent a one-room summer cottage for 2000 rubles or a two-room house with four beds for 4000 rubles. The territory is drowned in greenery, in the center of the complex built a swimming pool. Nearby there are cafes and stores.
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Not far from the beach is erected housing hotel “Bolshoi Utrish” (Naberezhnaya Street, 7/1). The daily cost of living in a budget double room – 800 rubles, two-room rooms with kitchenettes are offered for 2500-4000 rubles.
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Not far away is the homestead “Fisherman’s House” (Naberezhnaya Street, 4). Unpretentious travelers who spend all day on the beach, rent here rooms with TV, refrigerator and shower for 700 rubles per day. Here you can choose to stay in a well-appointed studio with a kitchen (from 1500 rubles) or in two-room apartments (2600-3500 rubles). The owner of the manor organizes for guests fishing on his own boat, boat trips. For an additional fee you can order three meals a day. Dinners are served on the veranda overlooking the protected forests, mountains and sea. In the yard is equipped with a recreation area with a gazebo and barbecue.
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Similar conditions are offered in the guest house “Mountain Air” (ul. Lesnaya, 5).
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Comfortable rooms you will find in the mini-hotel “Valentina” on Mozhevelova Street, 2/3. The cost of accommodation – from 1000 to 4000 rubles.
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Autotourists are waiting for camping “Utrish wave”. On a landscaped area with juniper trees placed mobile houses with vans with sleeping places for 2-4 people. Electricity is supplied to the compact vans on wheels, a refrigerator and air conditioner are installed inside. The cost of rent – 950 rubles per day, three meals a day are included. The campground has a summer dining room, showers, toilets. Nearby is a pebble beach. The territory is guarded, garbage removal is organized. Travelers cook food on the fire, here are offered braziers, firewood, bags of coal. In the village there are cafes and snack bars, grocery stores and kiosks, where seasonal fruits and vegetables, fresh fish are sold. You can set up your own tent. Daily accommodation will cost 300 rubles for parking + 300 rubles for a place for a tent (without food).
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Summer houses without amenities inexpensively rented on the island of Utrish near the lighthouse.
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If you have not taken care of booking rooms in advance, at the height of the summer season to find shelter in Bolshoi Utrish will be difficult. The nearest mini-hotels, well-furnished cottages and apartments should look for in the village of Sukko, which is 4 km north of the reserve. Prices for accommodation in rooms with all amenities start from 500 rubles.
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On the opposite cordon of the reserve, in the village of Maly Utrish, which is 20 km to the southeast, is a beach campsite “Juniper Paradise” (Utrishskaya Street, 29) and several guest houses.
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Residents of the surrounding villages willingly rent bunks (300 rubles/night) and rooms (from 700 rubles/day).
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How to get there
The nearest airport, railway station and intercity bus station are located in Anapa, 19 km north of the reserve. From Anapa to the village of Bolshoi Utrish there are buses № 109 and shuttle buses. In summer, excursion motorboats sail to the reserve from the seaport, and pleasure boats are available for rent. Transfer by cab will cost approximately 700-750 rubles. Auto tourists should leave Anapa on Kalinina Street, leading from the center to the southeast, then – on Supsekh highway, through the villages of Varvarovka and Sukko.
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There are shuttle buses from Novorossiysk to Bolshoi Utrish. By car, go to the northwest, on the highway A290. Traveling along the winding mountain road will take about an hour and a half.
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